Pender Harbor Too Chatter Box Falls

August 11, 12 and 13th

Big day… off to Chatterbox falls in Princess Louisa inlet. Alex thought we might be departing later to catch the Malibu rapids at entrance to the inlet at slack…. then he realized we had to leave NOW ?…so we got going quickly and cruised up Agammemnon Channel and in to Jervis Inlet.  Was worried the ebbing tidal current, shown ebbing at 13:45 PDT at Malibu Rapids diagram below, would slow us down and we would miss our slack window. Did not see anything over a knot or so of current on the trip up so all good.  
Malibu Rapids at Princess Louisa Inlet can have up to 10 knots currents with a narrow dog leg in the middle so nothing to trifle with.  Even with making close to slack we had 2-3 knots flood going in.

John Henry Marina Too Chatter Box Falls
Princess Luisa Current 8/11/2018

Gloomy cloudy day and ended up raining too. At first a bit disappointed about rain but later realized this created many waterfalls in the fjord. Easy cruise and got to the rapids a bit before slack with incoming 2-3 knott current. Announced our transit and through we went.  Entrance dog legs to the right and a bit of an S curve but since we had timed it well not a problem. A 110 foot boat Alliance went through before us. We did not see it but wondered about navigating a long boat like that through the inlet.


Right near the entrance to Princess Louisa Inlet is a Christian kids camp. It must be for rich kids as what a place! Beautiful grounds, swim area, ski boats, SUPS, volleyball etc…. looked very swanky.

Fancy Kids Camp At Malibu Rapids

Arrived at the falls..it rained much of the way up the inlet but this created the waterfalls. The dock was full (we are too big for dock anyway) and there were several boats anchored to the west of the falls. I urged Alex to squeeze in right in front of the falls which he did YAY!! They guys went to stern tie us but it would have been on east side of falls and ranger came out to say not a good idea to tie there but she said we likely did not need to stern tide due to the current from the falls. So no stern tie but right  in front of falls four our 3 day stay.

We all checked out the falls and then settle in for evening. We had some left over dungenous crab so I made crab coconut soup. I added Ramen noodles at the end and it complemented it well.

Next day we deployed SUPS and kayaks and all did a bit of both. Took Dinghy to MacDonald island and took a short hike on Ming’s Loop, nice walk through the woods to the inlet. Got back and did some more SUPing and hanging.


Mings Loop Trail
Dighy Dock Macdonald Island
Macdonald Map
Terra Enjoying Ride Back from Macdonald Island

Unfortunately a yacht we had seen at John Henry “Shiatz” showed up and anchored next to us. They had these motorized self-propelled wake boards which were an annoyance. Alex asked that they keep them away but they still ruined the serenity. Unfortunately the ranger was gone for the time they were there so they were not shut down (one would think they would not be allowed). After the fact we should have told them of 4 mph speed limit and maybe the would have respected that. Terrible behavior!

The next AM Gary and Marcia were to fly out around 2pm.  We went to falls in AM, those guys took a kayak and then their float plane arrived.  When we were kayaking kept getting the feeling were being watched for some reason hmmmmm……Later in the day the float plane arrived at the park dock and Gary and Marsha flew off into the mist…

That afternoon we struck out on the trail to the trapper’s cabin (Which continues up to the top where apparently there are amazing views). Lots of warnings at beginning of how strenuous and unmaintained the trail is. We heard various reports…45 minute walk 1.5 hour walk? Anyhow off we went and it was very technical…lots of rocks and steep areas where one had to pull on roots etc…. We got about ½ hour and then Terra balked…she had enough…just too much for her with the steep inclines. So we turned around…I think youngster Holly could have made it and likely I could have too but it was a bit more than I liked too… maybe next time.

So the entire time we were there it seems hazy. We attributed it to humidity as it had rained but even on the last day when “sun” was out it was hazy. Turns out it was the beginning of several day so bad SMOKE from BC and Washington fires.


We would have stayed another day but the idiots on Shiatz continued to run their motorized wake boards so we left and headed north to Powell river where we could provision and refill water.

Nanaimo To Garden Bay/Pender Harbor

August 10th

Departed Nanaimo and stopped overnight at Garden Bay/Pender Harbor to get the first 30nm in for our destination of Chatter Box Falls.

Nanaimo To Garden Bay/Pender Harbor

Saw a couple humpbacks close by on the way (two sets of two) which was so cool. Arrived late afternoon and picked John Henry Resort and Marina in Hospitality bay for our overnight.  John Henry turnes out to be a real nice small marina with nice staff and well stocked store with all the essentials, food, beeer and Liqour.  At the free public dock nest to us we noticed a really nice restored fishing boat the Merry Chase, well done!

Walked a bit from marina and found a sign for the Pub Path, sounded like our kind of trail so followed it to Garden Pub on edge of Garden bay. Had some beers and wings then walked back. Chilled and had dinner.

Ganges To Nanaimo

August 8 and 9th

Hoisted anchor, headed north toward Nanaimo. Went through our first “rapids” Tod narrows. We were going with current at 3-4 knots and it was not an issue.

Holly Piloting Tod Narrows

When arrived twas a busy evening there with lots of boats had to anchor at edge of anchorage.  After circling we ended up barely inside the outside markers as shown at the circler intersection of route below.  There are some nice trails to hike from the Newcastle Park dock and a nice walk through a cool bohemian neighborhood on Protection Island from there dock shown below.

Nanaimo Anchorage

We went to nearby Newcastle island park and it was very nice. Old pulpstone quarry (for grinding lumber into pulp), also had coal mines but now a park with trails all around.

Nice old dance floor/building built in early 1900s. At one point was a big destination for folks from Vancouver to visit (after mines and quarry closed). We were on island short time in afternoon and got back to boat about 5;20pm at which time a police boat came around and said we had to leave??? What they meant is we had to get off the boat. Apparently we had arrived on a day the Canadian Snowbirds (similar to blue angels in USA) were doing a practice show in the harbor and we had to be off the boat in case they crashed I guess. So we went to the Dinghy Dock pub on Protection island. We had some appetizers and beer and watched the show. 

Guys deployed crab traps after that and then we had dinner on the boat cooked up the crab we had caught in ganges with drawn butter and sides salad.

Next day we took dinghy into Nanaimo. Walked the town which was ok, a few stores and a couple galleries. Had lunch at pirates fish and chips place. It was good… halibut and chips for Gary and I and Alex and Marcia had Salmon. Went shopping at BC liquor and grocery then back to boat. Everyone was chilling and I was as usual not tired so I went to the island and jogged the perimeter trail (Cut short at end cause it twas long!). No wildlife sighted but nice jog on water and through forest of cedar and madrones. Dogs got to swim before, during and after. We had the red crab we had caught in Ganges for dinner.

Guys checked the traps and we had lots of Dungenous crabs YAY. They took up traps but then regretted it since they had so many dungenous so they went back out and deployed them.


The next AM they check traps (more crab) and we raised anchor to cruise across strait of Georgia to Pender harbor/Garden Bay (which has several marinas).

Sidney Marina To Ganges

August 6 and 7th

AM we all got up and walked to breakfast and then guys went to BC liquor store and Marica and I started the shopping. Loaded up and then left marina a bit late. Heading for Ganges.

Anchored in Ganges harbor and planned to stay two nights.

One of the things you notice in the San Juan’s and BC Island areas are the the houses that are present in many areas on very small Islands with just a dock and house.  This one stuck out as the smallest Island we saw which was right next to our anchor spot in Ganges.

House On Rock Ganges

Went ashore first night and walked around a bit.  Ganges is a neat town with a “hippy” kind of vibe to it which we really enjoyed.

Welcome To Ganges

Found nice wood gallery and “leaf” dispensary where PJS acquired some sleeping aids. Found another small co-op gallery where we heard music which led us to Centennial park where some folks were playing and singing various things. 

Walked along Ganges alley (small shops and eateries), along water found one of the many pianos set outside and then stumbled on to a trail out to grace point (required some rock climbing but very pretty). Back to boat. Gary, Alex and Holly deployed crab traps.

Next day planned to explore Ganges and do some walking. Found a park just outside of town that had some hiking and trees (Mouat’s park) where some early Japanese settlers had charcoal kilns.

Charcoal Kilns Mouat’s And Salt Spring Island

We all started walking together but then Gary and Marcia headed back to the farmer’s market and we walked dogs a bit longer.

We later hooked up at farmer’s market and got some tomatos, bread, sweets and listened to music, followed by ice cream.  Went to a few more galleries in town and then headed back to boat.

The guys checked the traps and we had Dungeness and Red crab for dinner finishing with a great sunset.

Sidney Spit To Port Sidney Marina

August 4th-6Th

Took dogs into do their business, stowed crab pots, hoisted dinghy and headed for Port Sidney. Have two nights at marina. Gary and Marcia fly in August 5th and staying to August 13th when they will fly out of chatterbox falls.  Port Sidney Marina is top end with brand a couple brand new multi-million dollar Flemings boats for sale at the dock on the way in.

Port Sidney Marina

August 5th

One night in Sidney. Smallish town but all the amenities, great waterfront walk with sculptures and green grass. Short walk to close grocer or ride to further out groceries. We rode bikes and found an auto shop where Alex bought some filters for outboard. Stopped at hardware store and got some things needed and found a women barber who cut Alex’s hair. She was from Jamaica but had been inBC many years.

Also bought some general groceries on the bikes (Cranberry for Alex, some booze) but planned to do another shopping journey close to marina after Marcia and Gary Arrive.

Marica and Gary arrived late around 8:30 pm and made it to the boat with out us. SO good to see them. They had brought as requested 1) trash compactor bags and 2) oatmeal. Apparently oatmeal always sets off the airline sercurity guys to get looked at… so they had to open bag and then they would say “oh its oatmeal…that always happens”.  They were tired form traveling so we all hit the hay so we could get an early start the next morning.

Otter Bay To Sidney Spit Anchorage

August 3rd-4th


Gary and Marsha are meeting us in Sidney on the 4 th so we decided to hoist Anchor and go over to Sidney Spit Anchorage for a night. Most boats anchor in near the park dock where it is more protected. After going up looking for a channel in deep enough for Water dog’s 5’3″ draft we chickened out and anchored out tucked up close to the beach on south side out of the prevailing SE winds.  

Sidney Spit Anchorage
Water Dog At Sidney Spit
Sidney Spit Park Dock

Had a nice walk on beach…it got dirty when on the strait of Georgia but was nice and clean facing the spit where we anchored.

You can moor at the main park dock overnight if desire and space available. After beach walk went to the dock. Took a couple mile walk south on island through the trees then back through the campground.

A couple old growth cedars were huge, wonderful tall madrones but the island was logged by a brick company that was present at one point in early century.  Campers would play with some left over bricks on the beach. A few brick structures and cleared depressions were the clay pits.

Had left over crab soup and broccoli for dinner with some mac and cheese. Early to bed.

Otter Bay Anchorage North Pender Island

August 2nd-3rd

We raised anchor and went from Russel Island to Otter Bay on North Pender Island, another short trip of 5 nm.  There where only a couple sial boats there and we where able to tuck up in to the head of the bay near the park dock where we had a very comfortable couple nights.

No crabbing done. Dinghied in to Gulf Islands National park and walked about in the park.

Took a nice hike out to Roes Islet and then to and around Roe Lake so got good exercise.  Old cottage resort, Roesland, is now part of the park and the park headquarters there too. Most of the resort cabins are closed due to poor condition. The main house is now a museum but is only open on weekends.

To get to Roe Lake you have to walk 1/2 mile or so up Shingle Bay Road to the trail head over to the lake.

Alex found a great blackberry patch and picked two pints and they were sweet and ripe. 

By that evening we had three crabs only…. I made thai crab coconut corn soup. I found the recipe by surfing the net and looking at ingredients making sure I had them. Coincidentally the recipe was from Araxi restaurant in Whistler which we thought about going too when we were there as it was the highest rated (we aborted due to how expensive it twas).  Soup was excellent!

August 3th

In AM went in to the Otter Bay Resort and Marina in AM to let dogs do their business. Nice place. Small café (breakfast burrtion was not hand made), nice grounds, got to dump recycling (and could have dumped garbage), nice viewing deck and firepits…very nice place with friendly staff, we liked it.