Shearwater to Dent Island Lodge

August 28th To September 6th travel was from Shearwater to Pruth Bay, Port Hardy, Alert Bay, Lagoon Cove, Blind Channel and finally Dent Island Resort.

August 28th Shearwater to Pruth Bay

Pruth Bay at the Hakai Institute was our first stop after Shear Water. This place turned out to be one of our favorites since there are nice hiking trails and wonderful deserted beaches for us and the dogs.

Shearwater to Dent Island Lodge

Shortly after we left Shearwater sun came out. Nice to see some blue sky and views. Nice cruise with good current.  Saw a whale breach a few times from miles away!  Since nice went to Pruth bay and came in from the north through Hakaii passage then turning between Ratter and Hecate island. Saw a bunch of fishermen at east end of Hakaii passage and then saw two fishing lodges tucked in on Hecate island.

Anchored in bay closer this time so had access to the free internet on all devices. Crowded LOL we have found the cruisers. By the time we went to bed at least a dozen boats in the bay. Dogs and us had nice sunny beach walk on west and north beach. YAY! 

August 29th Pruth bay to Port Hardy, crossing Queen Charlotte sound

Early start. Alarm 5:15am. Took dogs in, got dinghy up and anchor up and underway by 6:15 AM ( a record) Foggy for first part of trip after go out of Kwakshua channel (the east entrance to pruth bay). Some pacific white sided dolphins rode the bow in the channel. Thick fog as we continued south down Fithugh annel but started to clear around 8:30am with some sun shining through. Fog most of the trip though, mild 3 foot swells.   Did not see landmarks to east has traveled. After passing cape caution caught a bit of current for awhile then seemed like we were against it as we passed main opening of queen charlotte strait. Arrived in Port Hardy. Found out we could not tie on sea gate docs (50 foot max). ended up in Fisherman’s wharf. Tight and at low tide even tighter so we may have to wait until tide up a bit until we leave. Fisherman’s wharf cheap, no power as only 20 AMP and tight. But cheap. In AM walked eastward and found the beginning of trail system that goes to estuary of river and fish hatchery.

August 30th  and 31st Port Hardy To Alert Bay

Left Port Hardy mid morning after tide had come up a bit. Headed out in some fog with tide for a bit so good speed. Past Port Hardy and landed around 2pm at Alert Bay harbor.

Alert Bay Harbor
Water Dog At Alert Bay

Had a walk on the trail system and then went out for dinner at the hotel restaurant. It had mixed reviews, some people raved about the Indian food (Indian family runs it) but it was a bust. We guessed he entire dinner was microwaved from Costco…oh well. Planned for two nights

Patty At Big Tree Loop Trail

Next day slept in, woke up and was raining a bit. Walked southward down island around by airport then back on trail system to east trail and main trail back to town. Alex napped and then we went to the Umista cultural center. Walked past five awakwas (not sure what they are) the described the five clans of the Namgis (Kwak’wala) first nations Indians. Cool totems about town and on the awakwas. 

The cultural center talked a lot about a guy who wrote a book about this tribe in the 1790s and then a bunch of artifacts and masks that were confiscated from illegal potlatch in early 1900s. They have searched all around world in museums and private collections to retrieve blankets, cedar neck rings, masks, rattles etc. What we have not seen at other places were transformation masks. Really cool that many of the masks had articulations and joints with strings that would move or open the mask exposing another face. Pretty cool

September 1st  Alert bay to Lagoon Cove Marina

Plan to catch tide and leave around 11:30 am. Short cruise to Lagoon Bay.  First bit of cruise across Johnstone Strait was very foggy…had to use radar. About the time we entered knight inlet the fog cleared and we had sun with some clouds and nice views of mountains and rocks.

Views Knight Inlet

Arrived around 3pm and tied up at lagoon cove marina. Took dogs on short walk and prepped appetizer for happy hour on the dock. The “signature’ thing for this place is 5pm happy hour where they provide the prawns and boaters that come bring a dish. We ate a lot and did not need dinner. Chatted a bit with other boaters and then chilled.

Water Dog At Lagoon Cove

Lagoon Cove has nice big grassy areas to play chuckit with ths doga, NICE….

Lagoon Cove Grass Area

September 2nd Lagoon cove day 2

Slept in. Harbor Porpoises fed all morning at low tide. By end of AM I deployed SUP but they had left. Both Alex and I did some SUPing, we tried to wax the boat a bit and walked all the trails on the property.

Lagoon Cove Trial

Played some chuck it with holly, had another happy hour and then to bed. Met Hugh and Fiona on Choices. Nice couple from Whistler (keep boat in coal harbor). He was Civil engineer, She a mechanical engineer. Back in 80s she spent a lot of time in Dubai designing and building amusement part rides. 


September 3rd Lagoon Cove to Blind Channel

Left lagoon cove and worked out way out to Johnstone strait.

Did Race Rapid. Saw two Orcas shortly after entering strait then further down saw a nice pod. They were close and we slowed down to spend more time with them. Some tail slaps. They zigzagged across strait when we turned up channel to go to Desolation sound.

We had option so shoal bay or blind channel resort. Alex decided on blind channel resort with no complaints from me ?

Right after we tied apparently the orcas had followed up the channel and went past…all were looking on the dock but we were walking dogs and missed it. We saw Bear North with John and now younger brother Loyd sailing behind us and they pulled up too. We all had dinner together… it twas good I had halibut, Alex had Schnitzel (pounded, breaded and fried pork cutlet).

We spent two nights

September 4th Blind Channel

Chill day, walked dogs on all the available trails, swam dogs, trim dog nails, had dinner in and nice mellow day.

September 5th Blind channel, Dent rapids and Dent Island resort

Left around 8:30am to get to rapids at slack. Passed shoal bay which looked nice (green area, dock). Might be a nice stop another year.

Shoal Bay

Nice views as weather was nice with few clouds and lots of sun.

Views Cruise To Dent Island

Arrived at Dent Lodge and tied up. Explored lodge a bit then went for hike on their trails. Dent Lodge is a high end resort for Salmon fishing and very nicely done but pretty expensive for moorage.

Water Dog At dent Island Lodge

Tugboat trail and a newly added Loop Trail up into the forest. Ms Terra stuck her head in a wasp nest and we got a mini swarm after us…alex and I both got 7-8 bites on our legs. Not sure if terra got any. That was kind of a bummer as painful.

Dent Island Loop Trail, Watch Out For Wasp Nests In Leaves On Ground
Terra Enjoying Dent Island Resort


We reserved at the Rapids Grill for dinner…seven course meal cooked in front of you for a group of 12 on a bar around the cook. It was yummy and we had a good time.

Rapids Grill, Dent Rapids In Back Ground

We saw that the power cat was from point Richmond and I said hello to the owner and realized it was Steve and Susan Chamberlin ! Also Selene behind us had two guys from Walnut creek, one a retired veterinarian. We met them at the appetizer hour and then sat with them at the grill. It was there 25th anniversary and interestingly they have two grown children adopted 20 and 22 years ago. 

FULL FULL FULL and off to bed after dinner. Very itchy me all night due to bites starting with the welts from the wasps on hike….

September 6th Day 2 Dent lodge

Chill day, walked dogs just a bit, worked out, had dinner at inside restaurant very good. Plan to leave around 10:30 next day to get rapids with some but not too much current.

Ketchikan To Shearwater

August 24thTo August 27th

Between Ketchican and Shearwater we stopped at Prince Rupert, for Canadian customs, then Hartley Bay and the native village of Klemtu.

Ketchican To Shearwater

August 24th,  Ketchikan to Dixon Entrance to Prince Rupert

Dixon Entrance East weather Forecast

To get to Prince Rupert from Ketchican you need to cross Dixon Entrance, which is open to the Pacific from the west, so you need to watch the weather for the crossing. Dixon Entrance is just south of Prince Rupert.

The weather forecast for Dixon entrance is above showing 20 to 30 knots the evening before turning to the west at 15-25 the next morning when we left. For this crossing the west wind is the direction you do not want since the wind waves will have a long fetch and build on top of the swells coming form the Pacific.

Since we would not be at Dixon until later in the day when winds should diminish to 10-15 decided to go for it starting a little later at 10 am.

Started out nice cruise as in side passage til got past foggy bay. First part of crossing ok but when we got in front of Portland inlet we had ebb tide from sound and beam seas. It sucked! We had to “tack” ie turn up towards west end of Dundas island to head more into waves then turn SE to have more following seas to get back to east ends of Dundas island. About 2 hours of bad rocking with one big tip over. We had not tied down table or chairs but they were ok. Arrived at Prince Rupert and got into a slip no problem. It was 5:30 pm or so. Harbormistress had left us keys.

Alex called in to customs and we received our clearance and number over the phone.

Alex sees a bunch of lows coming and very worried. Wants to skidaddle south quickly at get inside Vancouver island rain shadow. 
That night Alex watched first gator game and they won. Go gators.

August 25th Sunday: Prince Rupert to Hartley Bay

Headed south early in AM. Fought tide first ½ of day then caught current second. Skipped Lowe Inlet stop due to worry about storms. Nice easy quiet cruise. Saw a couple whales which we were surprised. Both of us had been wondering if we’d find them in Grenville canal since it very narrow for a long distance.

Grenville Canal whale

Arrived early evening in Hartley bay. Got lucky and found dock space. Free dock, free 30amp electric and free high speed internet ! WOW. 

We squeezed Water Dog in to this very small marina on an inside dock keeping as far off the breakwater on the outside as possible. Another 60 footer squeezed in also later at the side dock inside us.

Water Dog Tucked In At Hartley Bay

This is a board walk town of 200. No store. We walked the water front board walk and then the to the fish hatchery and beyond along the Gabion river.

Hartley Bay Board Walk
Hartley Bay Native Center

The hatchery is run by the Git Ga tribe. We saw some fry in tanks.

Hartley Bay Hatchery

Continued to walk board walk which ended up being about 1 mile long to “lower lake”. Dogs had a good time.

Hartley Bay Board Walk

Lots of nice blue berries on the trail and the dog’s have now learned to pick berries when ever they see them.

Terra Picking Blue Berries

Of course what ever Terra does Holly copies.

Holly Picking Berries

Had dinner in. Met folks from Port Edward (around the corner from prince Rupert where historic cannery museum lies), Jim Jones. He had been anchored in the storm two nights before and stayed up all night hoping his anchor would hold.


August 26th Hartley Bay to Klemtu

Saw large pod of Orcas going in our direction so got to cruise along with them for a long time keeping the same speed, WAY cool! And a couple whales.

Orcas On Hartley Bay To Klemtu

Wanted to stop at Khutze bay but weather not good and alex still stressing so we passed it by. No room at public dock (a cruising boat was at dock and if we had beat them we would have been able to tie up) so anchored. 

Klemtu dock is pretty trashed up but cant complain when free!

Water Dog Anchored Off Klemtu Public Dock

We anchored further out to avoid trees getting stuck on anchor, nice view of long house. We took a walk in Klemtu again. Went to the Spirit Bear lodge. All inclusive lodge owned by the tribe. Walked in and at first the “manager” was a little surprised to see us but then he got in host mode and was friendly and informative. Explained they provide cultural and wildlife viewing tours. He mentioned his boats would be back soon but were watching 15 orcas trying to kill a humpback outside Khutze inlet.  I asked about the huge ferry terminal north of town and he said it was just “luck”: BC ferries needed a storm port and they chose klemtu. 24 million for barely used ferry station. Asked if Salmon ran in the rivers there and he said yes (they were jumping all around us again).

On way back a local told us to be careful a sow with two cubs is wandering town and could pop out at any time…we did not see.

Augusty 27th Klemtu to Shearwater

Chill cruise. Saw a couple whale spouts. A bit of open water to get to Shearwater in Mllebanke sound. A little chop but nothing compared to Dixon. Wanted to stop at Bella Bella but no dock space so went to Shearwater.

Shearwater was pretty full. We have caught up with the cruisers. This made Alex feel good (as we caught up) and bad (as we now have company) LOL!

Walked to coast guard station and back so dogs could run (about 5 miles)

Shearwater Coast Guard Station

We met John and Vicky on Bear North who tied up behind us while we were on our walk. They are on a nice new 58 foot motor sailor made by Hans Christian??

They had gone to Hadai Gwaii. They also were anchored in the big storm with the captain manning the help at night just in case. Good thing Alex checks weather as we were at Ketchikan dock for this. He was critical care ER doctor and she ER/pediatric nurse. Nice couple. They live in Alberta one hour from Banf. They keep their boat at Van Isle marina (just like Mana Kai and Grand QTR).  They shared a reference of “Bert” their boat watch person and promised to email info when they can. They joined us for dinner so it was a nice time

Sitka to Ketchikan

We stopped in Sandy Bay, Egg Harbor, Merrifield Bay and Thorne Bay on our way back south from Sitka to Ketchican.

Sitka To Ketchikan

Left Sitka around 7:45am. High fog at first and for most of the Journey. Were aiming for cats head or tail cove but decided to stop at Sandy Bay which supposedly had a waterfall. Not a bad cruise but  6-7 foot seas and 20 kt winds from NW and very irregular waves from SW made the ride a bit lumpy.

NOAA Forecast (Today) Leaving Sitka

Entering Sandy bay was easy since waves coming from north west and angle of bay opening was NE so just a bit of beam seas and got right in.

Outside Sandy Bay Entrance
Inside Sandy Bay Entrance

Searched for spot and picked deep anchorage in front of waterfall instead of up the arm to the river outflow.

Sandy Bay North Anchorage

Saw some otters and the next AM saw a grizzly grazing grass at one of the beaches. Had BLTs for dinner.  At this site lost all satellite from DirectTv

North Sandy Bay Anchorage

August 7th  Sandy Bay to Egg Harbor on Coronation island

Left 9:30 ish or later. When went to get dinghy up the davit failed. Davit motor starts by itself and wont stop after release buttons. BAD BAD NEWS as it may not be long til it fails completely. Got dinghy on board with a bunch of nonsense trying to get it right on the supports and with the davit issue. Headed out and FOG FOG FOG. At first ½ mile visibility and could see the coast a bit but then near Ommaney point turned got worse and worse. We approached Coronation island with radar only…no visibility of land at all. Fog is not much worry in open water but when going in to an unknown small harbor we get a bit nervous.

Fog Egg Harbor

All of a sudden we came out of fog and were surrounded by the mountains (1400ft) at bay entrance. That was a relief but was stressful using only radar and charts to get into bay.

Fog Breaking At Entrance To Egg Harbor

Anchored in the bite recommended by the SE Alaska book and it was rolly. Actually as remote this place is a sailboat had just anchored at head of the bay prior to our arrival.  

Water Dog Anchored At Egg Harbor

Alex decided safest to launch little dinghy (which is used as an accessory storage shed for stuff ☹) in case we can’t bring it up with crane. 

Then took dogs and us to the beach. Small dinghy very small for the four of us..unstable. Met the neighbors on the beach and chatted. Dogs swam a bit and played.

Beach At Head Of Egg Harbor

 Cruised along shore on way back to see if we could see the supposed “trail” which is rough but goes up pin peak. Did not really find.

I had rubbed pork tenderloins the day before so we had pork tenderloins, grilled broccoli and rice for dinner. Watched part of a movie and went to bed.

August 8th Egg Harbor

Slept in. Took dogs in to shore by the caves on west side of  Harbor and had a nice beach walk going through a few caves from beach to beach. Found an old pipe where we landed dinghy and alex went hand over foot up the ridge a bit. We had read can hike to pin peak so were wondering if this was the trail.

Egg Harbor Caves
Water Pipe On Right Possible Trail To Top

We put a plastic green jug marker we found on the beach as a marker in the tree to mark the spot where the pipe runs up the hill.

Green Plastic Jug On Tree Marking Possible Trail To Top

Later in day went to the head of bay beach and walked through the rain forest with old growth and a foot of moss covering it all. Very surreal. Lots of goat trails and poop but never found this supposed trail to Pin Peak.

Patty, Terra and Holley In Rain Forest

Before going back to boat went to the east shore of the bay and walked across the isthmus to the other shore. Even though only 800-900 feet with all the downed logs and moss tough to get there.

Then we saw dead something on beach and dogs were too interested so just looked at other bay and headed back. More goat poop. We did see small footprints, likely martins since those are about here. The entire day fog was visible at mouth of bay.  Had Pasta sauce for dinner and then too bed.


August 9th Egg harbor to Merrifield Bay

We started out going to Point Baker but when we got there we did not see a place on the dock for us.  We ended up at Merriweather cove 1 mile east of Port Baker.

Full Dock At Point Baker

At Merrifield Bay we anchored in behind the net float used by fisherman for working on nets.  With south winds forecast this turned out to be a nice calm place and stayed two comfortable nights at anchor.

Water Dog Anchored Behind Net Float At Merrifield Bay

Later that day we took dinghy to Point Baker. Had a couple drinks at the bar and the bar mistress, owner, harbor mistress mentioned we should have hailed her as we could have tied up at float plane dock. Oh well. We chatted with her a bit and then headed back to boat. No dogs on shore and its private land so that was a bummer.

Point Baker Bar
Patty and Bar Tender Point Baker Bar

August 10 and 11th

Point Baker to Thorne Bay

Two nights at Thorne bay. Got there late day and side tie at dock (Sunday).

Water Dog At Thorne Bay Harbor
Thorne Bay Harbor

Got a milkshake at the café and walked the waterfront.

Walking Waterfront From Harbor To Cafe

Going inland we found the big log claw which they have turned into the city’s ornament. I guess due to size its not right down town. Ate in that night with plan to fish, walk and eat out at the café the next day.

Thorne Bay Claw

Monday Alex took dinghy out to opening of bay (4 miles) to fish. I then kayaked out to him. Tried to tow kayak but it flipped so hauled it on board. Alex tried for halibut nada. On way back in since salmon jumping all around us we casted a bit for salmon. Nada. Got back and took dogs on the “heart health walk” which is a trail/old logging road up to a picnic shelter with a view.  Good exercise for us and dogs. Road continued after the shelter and we walked a bit further.

Thorne Bay Heart Health Trail
View Of Marina From Thorne Bay Heart Health Trail

August 12th Thorne Bay to Ketchikan

On this cruise saw a lot of seiners and some gill netters. Alex asked someone and it seems sometimes season opens Sunday, Monday, Tuesday. This was a Tuesday.

Seiner Fishing On Way To Ketchican

Plan to leave Alex in Ketchikan while I go visit mom. We had been before so knew to look for open moorage which would not be hot docking. We got a great site at end of float 7 bar harbor south across from the slip we had previously.  We walked the north ½ of the Raindbird trail with dogs. Nice to stretch legs and another rainforest walk. 

That night lots of seiner’s came in and filled our float seven all around us, some even rafting. Great we got here before them!

We had dinner at Annabelles…the old hotel with the old bar purchases by owner years back from an old san Francisco bar. Good blu cheese halibut for Alex and I had Caesar salad with Halibut


August 13th -23rd Ketchikan

We had one day together in Ketchikan. Planned to walk entire Rainbird Trail which runs across the top of town in a strip of woods. Got to Alava’s fish and chips right at opening and split an order. Family run and got to talk to them for a bit. Walked down historic “alley” then up to and northward on the Rainbird trail and back to boat.

Ketchikan Rain Bird Trail Start
Ketchikan Rain Bird Trail
Ketchikan Alava’s Fish House

On the 14th I had 5pm flight to visit mom. I took a taxi then airport ferry. Had Alaska airlines to seattle. Then delta Seattle to PBI. Overnight flight. Thought I might get sleep but nope. Arrived on the 15th and stayed til the 20th. Mom on hospice, weaker, not happy if not on drugs. So sad.

Ales worked on boat chores while I was gone.

August 20th I arrived back to RAIN! Ran to catch 1:30 ferry then cab to the dock. Alex had been watching weather and this was a big storm with wind so he had luckily asked and was allowed to move us into the slip across from our side tie. The harbormaster helped him with lines. That night a good blow but not as bad as alex had thought but it would be bad to have been slammed against dock all night.
Aug 21st Wednesday. Another storm (bigger) was coming. Might have been an ok day to cross Dixon entrance but alex decided to have us wait which meant three days of waiting (til Saturday). That afternoon it cleared up so we walked to the church campus with grass we had found an Adler park to play with dogs.

Thursday 22nd we decided to rent a car for the day. Went to Walmart and to get propane. Did not do any scenic drive or drive to other parks as RAIN!. 

Friday 23rd we were in the big storm. Alex did some boat stuff. I wasted time and did do trampoline. Early in AM before care return we went to Walmart to get Brita filters and then to the Sweet Mermaid downtown for breakfast.