July, 2019 | Water Dog Site

Warm Springs Bay To Sitka Via Baby Bear Cove

July 31^st To Aug 6 th Warm Springs Bay To Sitka Via Baby Bear Cove

Left early to catch tides. Peaked in waterfall cove to see 400foot waterfall kutxhcuel/???? Nice. Pretty nice clear day.

Terra and Holly where not stressed out at all on this trip as they rested in Pilot House next too Patty piloting the boat.

Terra and Holly stressing Out in Pilot House During Trip

Saw one whale sort of close and one distant breach. Cruised up peril strait and stopped at Baby Bear Bay which was 3 nm north of Sergius narrows which has big current and has to be timed well. Had a chill evening in Baby bear day. Saw a dear but no bears. Alex deployed crab traps.

August 1^st Baby Bear Cove to Sitka

Alex retrieved crab traps. Got three small ones. We cooked them up in AM for later consumption prior to leaving. Got everything ready to go as needed to time tide at Sergius narrows. Left 10:30am (was a bit early) and nice flat water. Got to Sergius narrows early, still against tide so went through slow but no drama. No orcas or bears.

Chill cruise through Neva and Olga strait. When crossed small bit of ocean stopped on a small “sea mound” to fish for halibut. Guys caught a spiny rockfish and unidentified trout looking thing. Entered Sitka sound and then got to Sitka Harbor. Assigned end tie in Eliason harbor float seven.

The restored charter tug boat Swell, which we have seen numerous times on trip, was docked behind us. Took a short walk near marina and then guys cooked surf and turf YUM!

Water Dog at Sitka Harbour with Restored Tug Boat Swell

August 2^nd Sitka

We took dogs to dog park (a designated baseball field and they played some good chuck it). We then walked to downtown on waterfront. At first industrial but a couple inns and restaurant. Got to Totem square on waterfront with totem pole depicting history of Sitka.

Walked up Baranof Castle Hill which is where transfer of Alaska from Russia to US was executed years back. Lots of interpretive signs talking of history…Tlingits, Russians, US.

Then walked the small downtown which had a few good local artist shops. We had fry bread from a couple college kids. They recommended two food trucks (ashmo’s and Ju Ju’s) as lunch choices. Ju Ju’s is owned by fishing family and had fish tacos. At JuJu’s I had Halibut tacos, Alex had one salmon and one halibut. Fish good (owned by fishing family) but did not like the plane un heated corn tortillas. Marcia had the rice bowl which looked good. Gary had plain fish.

Finished town walk. Had rent a wreck Sitka car rental dropped off at totem square and thus after town walk we drove to Sitka National Historic park. Looked at some Indian stuff inside then took totem loop walk to see poles and also along Indian river.

Saw lots of Salmon running and watched some fisherman. No bears. Beautiful park. We did stop at Rose Gallery which is in a small building across from library and south harbor. It was a nice gallery. Went back and all tired. Marcia napped and Gary, Alex and I went to dinner at the Long Liner inn restaurant. Nice seafood pasta for the guys and I had halibut on salad with fries (my bad had fries ?)

August 3^th Sitka

We took dogs to dog park. Then after breakfast I had arranged for us to go visit raptor center around 10am. They did not have any patients for me to look at but we saw the facility and got a back scenes tour.

We then took car to Staargavin river area. Walked the forest/muskeg trail and then those guys hung out while we added on the mosquito cove loop (beautiful trail). We met at picnic table after and they had gotten some snacks. Left there around 3pm as a family had the hut reserved (nice sturdy hut, right on ocean and big firepit down near water).

We headed back and alex worked on zincs a bit while we hung out. Then we went into town for a bit to check out the rest of town. Gary and Marcia got something at another gallery and then we had a drink at Ernie’s bar (established 80 years ago) and then Pioneer bar (more locals and we had seen a dog go in the day before for its hot dog). We all decided to go to dinner at the Channel Club which was recommended by the another boater we had seen in Baranoff (Mola Mola). We had nice dinner: ¾ of us had white king salmon (apparently the metabolize their diet differently, milder and I liked it) and Marcia had soy type Black cod tips. Excellent meal.

August 4^th Sitka

We took dogs to dog park and alex filled dinghy gas tanks. Then back to boat to retrieve the gang. Went to the Sheldon Jackson museum for a couple hours. After that went back to boat.

Chilled in PM….I went to grocery store as I though we were leaving the next day. Got back 6:30pm ish.
That night we were tired and they /we had to get up early so went to get take out Mean Queen Pizza. While we waited we walked the dogs along the sea walk which is at the most southern marina and where the cruise ship passengers are let off.

August 5^th Sitka

I took those guys to airport at 5am. We had decided to stay and had a slow start but by 12:30 we were on Harbor Mountain /Gavin hill trail. Drove up 5mile long forest road and parked then walked along ridge to alpine hut (2.3 out and back, fairly strenuous). It was very clear, great views of mountains, alpine wild flowers, ocean all around just a stunning wonderful hike!).

Lots of blue and red berries to eat on trail

We turned around at the shack on top of ridge where you can stay over night if you wish.

Holly at *Gavan Hill* Trail Before Shack

On the way back down you get nice views of the bay below.

After we went down to Ashmo’s for late lunch and the truck was still open. Ashmo’s was recommended by the young couple that made fry bread and also by Steve a fourth generation American Indian who’s family has 4-6 jewelry stores in Texas, Ketchikan, Sitka). We went back and got boat ready for voyage down outside of Baranof Island.

Red Bluff Bay To Baranof Warm Springs

July 29^th and 30^th Baranof Warm Springs

Trip Length 22 nm

Baranof Warm Springs is a great stop with a nice dock and hot tubs with a view. The tubs have a hot water tap coming from a pipe from the hot springs above you use to fill them and a cold tap to control temperature. There is a donation box at the tubs to help pay for the upkeep. Also a short hike up the board walk is a fresh water lake that is great for dog swimming.

Early wake up at Red Bluff Bay. Alex wanted us to leave 9 ish. Had to do dogs, pick up kayaks, pick up crab traps, pick up dinghy and then on way out of place pick up prawn trap. Busy morning. All accomplished and anchor up and we were running by 9:30.

More prawns! Short cruise up chatham strait. Flat calm again easy to spot whales and another amazing whale encounter. Turned off engines and they were all around us literally at times 20 feet from boat. Off the stern and port side…two off port had to dive under us. Saw a few breaches from far away…. So cool.

Got to Baranoff maybe 2pm and a nice Flemming Mola Mola moved forward so we could be on the dock. Had the space right next to the float plane dock with great view of falls. Lots of current coming from water fall, expecially at low tide, so higher tide less current makes it easier to dock. Also rocks right past dock towards water fall so dont go past end of dock either!

Took a walk with all to Baranoff lake, the hot springs pools which are situated right next to a major rapid as the short river goes from lake to the falls. It cut a deep channel through granite or basalt and amazing…right next to hot pool rushing water. No bears but lots of berries in season now …blue berries and raspberry type things. Cloudy but no rain during walk.

Day Two at Baranoff: prawn trap deployed by guys. Guys ate Prawns for lunch. I went for a couple SUP excursions and did make it in lagoon that mush be entered and departed from at slack or rapids. Pretty but no bears. Cleared a lot so saw mountains. Alex and I took a walk to lake later in afternoon and then up a small hill (required some climbing) and had nice view of Baranoff lake.

Patty, Terra, Holly Lake At Baranof Warm Springs

We all took advantage of the hot tubs which was neat as you sat in tub with view of the waterfall.

At base of falls we did see school of salmon, supposedly pink salmon. We wonder if they spawn at the base of the waterfall. I did see a harbor seal hunting in the froth at the base of the falls, very cool.

Unfortunately Gary had a fall on the bow. Slipped on Teflon mat and landed on his shoulder. Hurt it BADLY and was very painful that night to the point he could not sleep at all. We were worried he might have to fly to hospital from Baranoff but he did feel better with medications.

Kake to Red Bluff Bay

July 27^th and 28^th Kake to Red Bluff Bay

Trip Length 30 nm

We went to Red Bluff Bay on the advice of other cruisers we talked to before Kake and it turned out to be one of our favorite anchorages along with our next stop at Baranof Warm Springs directly to the North.

Kake (On Right), to Red Bluff Bay (On Left)

Red Bluff Bay is at the end of a small inlet about 30 nm West of Kake. Nice cruise other than had high water alarm as I must have kicked off lazarette bilge pump switch when I cleaned windowscary. We got going fairly early as wind was to kick up in Chatham Strait. Crossed strait with 3-4 foot chop and no problem with stabilizer on. Got to Red bluff bay..what a cool wonderful place. Entrance hard to see from strait but not hard to navigate, just stay center channel.

Red Bluff At Entrance To Red Bluff Bay, Entrance To The Left

Marcia had read guide that prawns could be had on northwest corner of island 85(which we finally figured out meant 85 foot high on chart) so we dropped shrimp trap on the way in. Ended up getting over 50 prawn on the first night when we used dinghy to retrieve trap and 40 or so next night when we picked trap up on way out.

Arrived as only folks there and took a cruise around the bay since it was not raining. Saw the wonderful waterfall, nosed up river in dinghy. No bears. Guys put out crab traps near boat (we saw a crab when we took dogs to shore). Guys grilled tenderloins for dinner YUM!

The next day we deployed kayaks. Guys went to check shrimp trap and Marcia and I tried to paddle up river since it was high tide. Could not make it far due to current. No bears but I did see a dear in meadow. Beautiful views..waterfalls everywhere! Guys got 44 prawns very happy guys…also got 5 crabs! Monsters.

Gary Pickn Out Day Two Prawn Catch On Way Out Of Bay

Guys went for evening kayak to falls. Then I went in kayak with terra to falls later. All got rained on. Terra had to do dog business. I was able to pull up to a steep shore and let her off and she peed and poohed. Just before water fall I came around corner and was just a few yards off shore BEAR! Right there and very interested in us. He dipped foot in water but I backed away quickly and he did not follow. Terra shivered and one faint woof…not much of a bear dog. I looked at falls and then paddled back.

Red Bluff Bay Kayaking Shore Line (Bear!)

We cooked and cleaned crab but saved it as we had grilled prawns with magic sauce.

10 sail boats came in on our second night.
No more bears where encountered.
Sailboat gang just put dogs a shore and let them frolick and some also went to bear meadow and hung out….. we maybe too conservative on worrying about bears but maybe not.

Tracy Arm to Kake Via Cannery Cove

July 25^th Tracy Arm Cove to Cannery cove

Super smooth passage across and southward in Stephen’s passage to Fredick sound. Near bottom of Stephen’s passage where meets with Frederic sound MANY MANY Whales. We stopped engines and floated for an hour. Whale all around us! No breaching. One almost hit the boat and scared the heck out of us as big boil when he quickly avoided us. Cool to hear all the blows.

Moved on to Cannery Cove to anchor over night before proceeding to Kake. Total rain! Could not really see the shore much due to rain…never saw bear (Grand QTR boat friends had seen bear at tracy arm and a cannery cove but us nada). Marcia made white chili for dinner and I added salad and corn bread. Guys did crab traps and shrimp traps. Got two crab maybe? No Shrimp.

July 26^th Cannery Cove to Kake (pronounced “cake”)

Got to Kake early as short trip. Had Dahl’s porpoises bow surf for a good several minutes on the way into the bay. The marina is past the town proper where you pass the public dock. Thought of staying at the public dock but run down and only looked suitable for a possible dinghy run later.

Marina is far from “town”. Town has population of 500. We settled in to a slip (no power) and took a short walk to shore.

Then jumped into dinghy and went to the free public dock (not in good repair and shallow) and walked “town”.

Saw liquor store, church and residences…some nice house but most kind of shabby. Alex and I walked back to boat and Marcia and Gary took dinghy back. Cake has a very nicely stocked general store where we stopped and got a toaster and few items. For the general store From the marina you take a left at marina office and walk down the road along the water about 1/2 mile to the store on the right hand side.

Guys went out fishing that evening. Beautify evening with some some and nice flat water. They got two rock fish (one of which impaled Alex) but no halibut. Oh well they had a nice time. I had rubbed pork tenderloins to eat but they got back so late we had hot dogs and cabbage salad.

Juneau To Tracy Arm, Tracy Arm Glacier Cruise

July 23^rd To 25^th

Trip Length 43 nm

Easy cruise down Gastineau channel and Stephen’s passage to Tracy Arm No Name Cove where we anchored. There are no good places to anchor in Tracy Arm itself and with around a 50 nm round trip to South And North Sawyer Glaciers and back we anchored at the cove the night before and again at the end of the day of the trip to see the glaciers.

Had to anchor three times as ended up too near a small boat that had put out to much scope which swung in a huge arc. Shared first night with the Nordhaven Roxia which had shared slip with us at Juneau. No bears! Guys did not put out crab traps. Did an afternoon dinghy ride and got glacier ice from a bergie for happy hour.

Terra, Marsha and Gary In Dinghy At Bergy Bit Outside No Name Cove

Chilled and had dinner which was crab enchiladas using crab alex had harvested cooked and saved in hoonah.

July 24^th day cruise up and back Tracy Arm dodging bergies as we went.

Patty and Alex At Waterfall On Way In Tracy Arm To Glaciers

We did end up getting a decent bump or two from Bergy bits not to bad if you go slow. The ones that are the problem is the smaller size ones couple feet around or so, that are clear blue and very hard to see. Did notice the tour boat guy’s went to the outside along walls at pretty high speed. I think they keep the bergy bits washed out with their wake from boat directly and reflected wake of walls. We pretty much stayed more or less down the middle and went slowly when required through more dense bergy fields.

Entrance South Sawyer Glacier, Glacier Peaking Around Corner

Ended up getting to within 1/4 mile of both North and South Sawyer Glaciers.

Went early to miss cruise ships and we did. Mostly cloudy day but peaks of sun, no rain and high enough clouds that we saw the mountains so beautiful. Did south sawyer glacier first and picked our way up to within a 1/4 mile or so. So a bit of ice chunks fall but no major calving. Did not get close enough to see harbor seals on bergies near the glacier.

Then went to North Sawyer. I had read glacier is land bound but it does hang over water. Big river coming form its west (left ) face as you look at it. Hung out a half mile form it then headed back.

Receding Glacier On Chart Plotter, We Are Shown Inside Glacier on Older Raster Chart

Gary was on the stern just hanging and saw a HUGE calving he said…1/4 of the face fell off and created big wave. Dodge ice on the way back but while I was on watch I hit a small chunk. Made an god awful noise and I felt bad and alex mad as he thought I was not paying attention since I left wheel to go over and look at seals out the side window. I just did not see it. I had looked away when we hit but I also had scanned before doing so and not seen it. Oh well.

Got back to Tracy arm cove. Anchored on the southeast side instead of northwest. This made us realize the northwest side is better as you get view of mountains.

No bears!

Glacier Bay To Auke Bay/Juneau via Swanson Harbor

July 17^th Glacier bay to Swanson Harbor Public dock

Shaggy Cove to Juneau Via Swanson Harbor Float

Fairly long day to Swanson Harbor with NW wind coming down Icy Straight helping push us along.

Swanson Harbor has great AT&T cell phone reception and two nice floating docks not attached to the shore but very close. Route below was use to get in with docks on North East side when you get in at the loop at top of track. Water was deep at 35′ or so right up to the docks. You can also dock on the inside but might be a bit narrow at low tide.

Was raining so A nice stop over with dogs and would stop again in nicer weather to kayak etc. Did not put dinghy out. I took Terra and then Holly to shore in kayak. Had a little kayak around bay. Not a lot of walking on land but small exploration. Alex did not go ashore.

July 18 (North Juneau)^th Swanson Harbor to Auke Bay

Saw some whales. Still raining a lot. Rounding Point Couverden we ran in too some pretty steep water and 25-30 knot winds with small breaks from the starboard stern quarter.

We got on breakwater at Auke Bay Harbor but barely but did, lots of fishing/tour boats came in to dock right after us! No power but that’s ok. Took a walk with dogs through University of Alaska to a lake which had a nice trail along its southern edge. Had dinner on board with plan to go to Juneau.

July 19^th Auke Bay to Juneau
Easy cruise down Stephen’s passage. Couple whale spouts. Got to Aurora harbor and had a slip. Took a walk around neighborhoods with dogs then chilled. Arranged to have a car from the 20^th through the 23^rd.

July 20^th -21^st Juneau

Once at Juneau for second time we finally got across the bridge from Juneau to Douglas Island to hike the Treadwell Mine Historic Park. Down load the trail map with info on the numbered markers on the trail to identify the ruins before you go. Treadwell was a gold mine with shafts that collapsed after operating for a number of years from late 1800 to 1917 when the cave in creating Glory Hole occurred.

Terra and Holly at Stamp Mill Ruins, Sign Post#4

We drove down town to cruise dock area to meet Ashley the nice woman who had helped us so much with slip arrangements and got a pass.

Next day walked back above marina to the Perserverence Trail System to Ebner falls at the beginning of the trail. Beautiful trail up the valley with great view, streams etc…. When got down we went over the the Lance Chance Mine museum at the trail head start and checked it out. Old equipment in one of the remaining buildings, small place but cool old equipment.

Suspect you have seen Ingersall Rand air compressors for sale, well here is there great grand dad that was used to run the air tools in the mine.

*Last Chance Museum* Huge Belt(Stranded Cable) Driven Air Pump

That night had dinner at Twisted Fish: fish tacos for us both: it was ok but not spectacular.

We picked up Gary and Marcia July 21^st on the 10:15 delta flight. Had our hellos then to bed as all tired, especially them after day of travel

July 22^nd

Got up early and had breakfast at Sandpiper Café. Then drove to Mendenhal glacier. Viewed glacier, walked out to nugget falls and then did visitor center. Went to fish hatchery and bear viewing area but no bears as salmon not running as not enough water! They are in the lake but not able to get up stream. No salmon so no bears 🙁

Nugget Falls, Alex, Patty, Holly, Terra, Marsha and Gary

Very nice time regardless. Dogs swam at nugget falls!

That afternoon major provisioning. Went to Costco and got most stuff needed (and some not) and then to Fred Meyer. Did some shops (liked rainforest wood shop) then decided to have dinner at Salt which had been recommended by locals. It was pricey but very good. After that walked back on boardwalk then off to bed.

Hoonah To Bartlett Cove/Glacier Bay

Hoonah To Bartlet Cove Gllacier Bay Marine Park

Patty was able to secure a permit short notice from Glacier Bay. I got dates mixed up so we ended up having to get ready and move that day. There is a one mile exclusion zone from all shores for boats keeping away from whales so make sure you stay out one nautical mile. The NOAA raster chart has the zone or you can just use your radar to shore at one nm. Made it to Bartlett cove to anchor out with 10-12 other boats directly north east of the dock where the squiggly mark at the end of our track below.

Bartlett Cove Dock At Ranger Station, Anchorage To Right

Had orientation for boaters at 5pm after walking dogs on some trails. Interesting that we had the dog’s with us for orientation but the rule where dog’s can not get off the boat once inside Glacier Bay was NOT brought up. They have a large whale skeleton (had a picture of it about to be hit by cruise ship) and also a “new” long house built by the Tlingits that had to move from glacier bay to Hoonah when glaciers advanced in 1750 or so. Also walked through the Bartlett Glacier Bay National Park Cove Lodge which has lodging, serves food wine/bear and is very nicely done.

We did not plan to go all the way up to the glaciers in Glacier bay. So took a cruise up the bay and checked out Sandy cove on east side of the bay. Passed South Marble Island where many Stellar Sea Lions where hauled out.

Twas pretty but we decided to move on to Shaggy Cove on west side. Saw lots of whales. One lunge feed, lots of feeding but no breaching. Did have an orca pod go right behind us. I just happen to see one turn fast to avoid hitting boat. Was looking forward then looked behind and saw 4-6 crusing northeast in bay. With binocs I saw one breach several times. UGH! Want to see it up close. Oh well.

Glacier Bay Whale Tale, Blow In Back Ground

Also saw many many Sea Otters, they are very plentifull here.

Anchored in Shaggy cove. Beautiful, saw a bear in AM. Had to share cove with a small ranger tug.