August 24thTo August 27th
Between Ketchican and Shearwater we stopped at Prince Rupert, for Canadian customs, then Hartley Bay and the native village of Klemtu.
August 24th, Ketchikan to Dixon Entrance to Prince Rupert
To get to Prince Rupert from Ketchican you need to cross Dixon Entrance, which is open to the Pacific from the west, so you need to watch the weather for the crossing. Dixon Entrance is just south of Prince Rupert.
The weather forecast for Dixon entrance is above showing 20 to 30 knots the evening before turning to the west at 15-25 the next morning when we left. For this crossing the west wind is the direction you do not want since the wind waves will have a long fetch and build on top of the swells coming form the Pacific.
Since we would not be at Dixon until later in the day when winds should diminish to 10-15 decided to go for it starting a little later at 10 am.
Started out nice cruise as in side passage til got past foggy bay. First part of crossing ok but when we got in front of Portland inlet we had ebb tide from sound and beam seas. It sucked! We had to “tack” ie turn up towards west end of Dundas island to head more into waves then turn SE to have more following seas to get back to east ends of Dundas island. About 2 hours of bad rocking with one big tip over. We had not tied down table or chairs but they were ok. Arrived at Prince Rupert and got into a slip no problem. It was 5:30 pm or so. Harbormistress had left us keys.
Alex called in to customs and we received our clearance and number over the phone.
Alex sees a bunch of lows coming and very worried. Wants to skidaddle south quickly at get inside Vancouver island rain shadow.
That night Alex watched first gator game and they won. Go gators.
August 25th Sunday: Prince Rupert to Hartley Bay
Headed south early in AM. Fought tide first ½ of day then caught current second. Skipped Lowe Inlet stop due to worry about storms. Nice easy quiet cruise. Saw a couple whales which we were surprised. Both of us had been wondering if we’d find them in Grenville canal since it very narrow for a long distance.
Arrived early evening in Hartley bay. Got lucky and found dock space. Free dock, free 30amp electric and free high speed internet ! WOW.
We squeezed Water Dog in to this very small marina on an inside dock keeping as far off the breakwater on the outside as possible. Another 60 footer squeezed in also later at the side dock inside us.
This is a board walk town of 200. No store. We walked the water front board walk and then the to the fish hatchery and beyond along the Gabion river.
The hatchery is run by the Git Ga tribe. We saw some fry in tanks.
Continued to walk board walk which ended up being about 1 mile long to “lower lake”. Dogs had a good time.
Lots of nice blue berries on the trail and the dog’s have now learned to pick berries when ever they see them.
Of course what ever Terra does Holly copies.
Had dinner in. Met folks from Port Edward (around the corner from prince Rupert where historic cannery museum lies), Jim Jones. He had been anchored in the storm two nights before and stayed up all night hoping his anchor would hold.
August 26th Hartley Bay to Klemtu
Saw large pod of Orcas going in our direction so got to cruise along with them for a long time keeping the same speed, WAY cool! And a couple whales.
Wanted to stop at Khutze bay but weather not good and alex still stressing so we passed it by. No room at public dock (a cruising boat was at dock and if we had beat them we would have been able to tie up) so anchored.
Klemtu dock is pretty trashed up but cant complain when free!
We anchored further out to avoid trees getting stuck on anchor, nice view of long house. We took a walk in Klemtu again. Went to the Spirit Bear lodge. All inclusive lodge owned by the tribe. Walked in and at first the “manager” was a little surprised to see us but then he got in host mode and was friendly and informative. Explained they provide cultural and wildlife viewing tours. He mentioned his boats would be back soon but were watching 15 orcas trying to kill a humpback outside Khutze inlet. I asked about the huge ferry terminal north of town and he said it was just “luck”: BC ferries needed a storm port and they chose klemtu. 24 million for barely used ferry station. Asked if Salmon ran in the rivers there and he said yes (they were jumping all around us again).
On way back a local told us to be careful a sow with two
cubs is wandering town and could pop out at any time…we did not see.
Augusty 27th Klemtu to Shearwater
Chill cruise. Saw a couple whale spouts. A bit of open water to get to Shearwater in Mllebanke sound. A little chop but nothing compared to Dixon. Wanted to stop at Bella Bella but no dock space so went to Shearwater.
Shearwater was pretty full. We have caught up with the cruisers. This made Alex feel good (as we caught up) and bad (as we now have company) LOL!
Walked to coast guard station and back so dogs could run (about 5 miles)
We met John and Vicky on Bear North who tied up behind us while we were on our walk. They are on a nice new 58 foot motor sailor made by Hans Christian??
They had gone to Hadai Gwaii. They also were anchored in the big storm with the captain manning the help at night just in case. Good thing Alex checks weather as we were at Ketchikan dock for this. He was critical care ER doctor and she ER/pediatric nurse. Nice couple. They live in Alberta one hour from Banf. They keep their boat at Van Isle marina (just like Mana Kai and Grand QTR). They shared a reference of “Bert” their boat watch person and promised to email info when they can. They joined us for dinner so it was a nice time