May 26th-27th Port Hardy to Fury Cove on Penrose Island
Trip Distance 53 nm
Predictwind had 5-10 knt SE winds predicted which is almost perfect for crossing Cape Caution but the West Sea Otter Bouy was reporting 5.5′ at 7 seconds.
Left at 7am. First couple hours a bit bumpy but sun shining, 4-5 foot swells (Short periods made them bumpy) and averaged 8.5 knots at our good RPM for fuel. Nice easy crossing. No WHALES bummer… Baraka Bashad (sailboat with Vaughn and Rita), Grand QTR and Mana Kai all had the same destination and they left earlier than us from their port (Blunden harbor) and they were already anchored when we got there. We were invited to happy hour on Grand QTR at five thirty. About 2 hours later Baraka Bashad showed up. SInce this was a good weather day there was a large crowd of boats shown below with Water Dog (red boat in front) going around Cape Caution.
After we anchored I filled up a paddle board and did a
quick paddle while Alex chilled and had a beer. Then we deployed dinghy and
took dogs to shore where they swam and had fun. Did not anchor dinghy and tide
took it out 10 yards from shore and Alex had to go get it so he went swimming ?
We attended the 5:30 happy hour on Grand QTR and then
back to boat. Left over Avgo Lemino soup for dinner and to bed around 9:30PM
I’d guess.
In addition to having lost local channels on DTV we lost
a good number of other channels due to location. Alex starting to worry our
smaller dish won’t work that well even when we switch spots …we shall see.
When talking to the gang about places to visit Ocean Falls is a must. August 1st
ie BC day they have a big BBQ and invite boaters. Also check out Codville cover
(Walk to a lake).
Not sure where we will go tomorrow: 500 miles to Juneau
where we pick up friends around June 24th or so…4 weeks …so 20 stops
ish?
Decided to move the short 24 nm from Port McNeil to shorten our passage around Cape Caution to Fury Cove anchorage. Cape Caution has a nasty reputation so we are making sure we respect it.
Saturday AM: woke up and looked at weather. I had called Port Hardy moorage options the night before with a maybe answer. So called again and harbor authority said should be plenty of room just find a spot and quarterdeck inn and marina said they had room. So we left Port McNeill around 11am. Had a nice sunny and only mildly choppy cruise to Port Hardy, got there around 2 or so. Fisherman’s wharf had no room so we went into spot at Quarterdeck Marina.
Walked into town to see the sights (not many) and then had dinner on the boat and to bed. Weather looks good for crossing open water in Queen Charlotte strait tomorrow. At the main town area there was a wood sculpture of a carrot and the story is the BC government promised potential settlers /people a good highway if they moved to this most northern town on Vancouver Island…the highway being the carrot. The town is pretty small though…in summer population probably increases as big hunting and fishing area. Also of course logging is important.
The Port Hardy public dock outside the inner harbor looks like a good spot in settled weather but did not get any details on staying there. The inside side might not be bad.
Ran into an older couple walking their dog: they lived
here in summer and in AZ USA in winter.
Port Macniel is our planned jumping off point for the possibly tough passage around Cape Caution that you want to do carefull planning for with wind and currents. Currents coming out on ebb from the sounds on the east side hit the NW prevailing winds coming in from the Pacific causing very confused steep seas when conditions are not good. We will use Predictwind for good wind window, the Canadian marine forecast and the data from the bouy out in Queen Charlotte sound which reports wind and wave:
Packed the truck up and got out of house by 0730 in the morning for the drive to La-Conner WA. Stopped in Williams for fuel and stopped at the infamous “Granzella’s” Vince had raved about as good food stop. Continued north and ended up stopping in Wilsonville, OR in between Portland and Seattle. Stayed at La Quinta (no pet fee). Last couple hours of drive truck was giving us a warning about cleaning exhaust DPF error code. It cleaned with high speed driving in 10 minutes but then came back. Driving at lower gear cleared it and error code did not come back
The next day we checked in to the Heron Inn and Day Spa in La-Conner for two days while we worked on the boat before the splash on Thursday May 9th.
May 8th-9th La-Conner Maritime Boat Yard
Usually do this work myself but this year since we where not located near the boat I had La-Conner Marine replace seals on the TRAC stabilizers and thruster, replace raw water pumps on 20KW and 8 KW genny’s as well as clean raw water systems on both engines and genny’s. Ended up also replacing the (12)6V house battery’s since they old ones did not load test well. Water Dog splashed on Thursday the 9th so Patty and I painted parts of the hull with Micron-66 and got the boat ready to go. I also replaced the sight tubes on the main diesel tanks and replaced balls the flush and duck bill valves on both heads.
May 10th-13 th La Conner Marina Guest Dock
Did sea trial to check out work done by yard and had some oil on stabilizer fins so had Justin the mechanic come check them out and oil was just residual so all OK. Woke up and had left over scones for breakfast from the famous Scone Lady in La-Conner, great scones dont miss them.
May 14th, Cap Sante Marina Anacortes, WA
when we arrived we loaded on 1300Plus gallons of diesel at $2.64/gallon and then we secured a slip at Cap Sante Martina. Found a great source for John Deere parts and a valuable resource in Wayne Gregg at Gregg’s diessel. Family run business and will be ordering parts etc from them for now on.
Decided to hike up Cap Sante, which is right next to marina, with dogs while warm and sunny! Staying tonight at marina. Had a nice dinner at Anthony’s and left the next morning to go Poets Cove for customs to enter Canada.
May 16th, Cap Sante to Poet’s cove to Ganges Marina (Patty Reporting)
Left Cap Sante fairly early around 9am. Fought tide a bit with Alex complaining. Over cast but not too bad. Forecast says big winds and rain in evening. Easy uneventful cruise to Poet’s cove customs’ dock: EMPTY! Alex called with all our info ready and they had it saved and just gave him a number…easy peasy. Dogs had an out on dock and then since only 12 or so we decided to go on to Ganges.
Got to Ganges around 2:30pm. Tried to get municipal wharf but occupied so went to Ganges Marina. Big wide dock (splinter prone) and we backed down inside the dock/breakwater. Walked to Leaf Compassion, Mout’s park and then took dogs back to boat. Went and did vege shopping at Thrifty foods but of course Alex got cookies and ice cream. Had Fish tacos for dinner on boat and to bed by 9am for 6am wake up. Need to shove off by 6:30 or so to make slack at Dodd narrows.
May 17th Ganges Marina to Comox harbor. (Patty Reporting)
Left 7:09 am. Alex worried as at first against current
and we might miss narrows passing. After
an hour or so we picked up speed to 9 knots (at 1900 RPM) and caught up a bid.
Got to Dodd Narrows perfectly timed for slack and got through no problem. Still
only 11 am at Nanaimo so decided to move on to Comox ..another 4 hours or so.
After Nanaimo more open water in Strait of Georgia and with down sound wind
bumpy ride, not too bad but Holly dog worried with bouncing. Stabilizers do not
help with going into waves. ETA Comox
harbor 3:30pm, dockmaster said plenty of room to slide in there guest dock.
May 18-20th Comox to Campbell River (Patty Reporting)
We had a walk in the morning. Went to park and green belt along creek and then circled through neighborhoods.
Found park with tennis courts and bummed some tennis balls from two nice guys to use with chuck it. They informed us Vancouver island total population is 850K…fun fact. Stopped at food truck at the nice waterfront park by marina and had some lunch: me halibut and chips and alex pan fried oyster po boy: GOOD.
May 18-20th Comox To Campbell River
Shoved off around 2pm. Currents in discovery passage (by Campbell river) are strong and pointless for an 8knot boat to fight 6 knot current. So we cruised extra slow and arrived near opening of south end of discovery passage just before slack. Fought some current but not bad. Pulled in to slip at Coast Marina at 6:30pm or so. Dinner was tortilla soup and then to bed. Next day stopped at hardware stores to get needed stuff for sat phone install. We did a quick tour of the farmer’s market and had a snack (Schwarma) and then went for the hike.
Sunday was Victoria day. I rinsed boat, alex worked on Sat phone install. Some parts needed so plan was to get Derrick (super nice marina owner) to give us a ride to Elk Falls park and we would walk back with a Nice hike along Campbell river: dogs swam. Long walk though…per my phone 9.6miles! Picked up stuff at Canadian tire (hardware store) and Walmart, got a Starbucks cold coffee and back to boat. Had left over soup for dinner and chilled.
Decided to stay one more night to get last bit of Sat
phone install. That took much of the
day. We did get to walk out to the spit where Campbell River spills into
discovery passage, had an early dinner and early to bed. We need to catch slack
tide at Seymour narrows (a must to avoid rapids/currents) so we will have to
leave dock at 6am tomorrow to get there at 7am. After Campbell river stop new
territory…so far stops have been revisits. Up the discovery passage to Port
Hardy and onward.
Comments for us to remember. This place is nice but can be very wavy and its pricey compared to fisherman ‘s wharf (by a lot) or discovery harbor(about 30% less I’d guess)
May 21st and 22nd Campbell River to Blind Channel Resort
Left dock around 6am. Got to Seymour narrows with good timing ie at 7ish at slack and cruised through narrows no problem.
Now in Johnstone strait. Smooth sailing but wind was 10-20 knots. Despite wind not bad ride at all but we could see smaller boats bouncing about in wind waves (which were steeper due to wind against tide). Once turned into Mayne passage to get to blind channel calms sees. Arrived at Blind Channel resort around 10am.
Chilled, worked on misc boat things, took a walk to 900 year old cedar and had dinner at the Cedar post Inn (Good!).
A couple on a 42 foot Krogen Mana Kai was berthed nearby. They too are going to Alaska. Had a boat built 6 years ago and brought/sent it up here. Planned to take back to Long Beach but love it so much they been keeping boat at Van Isle Marina in Sydney. They are more experienced so had some tips on good places to visit. We may run into them again…we shall see!
May 23rd Blind Channel to Port McNeill (Patty Reporting)
we where told that Port McNeill Harbour was a much better place to provision and hang out at verses Port Hardy and this turned out to e true. Very nice grocery store and shops only a few hundred yards form marina verses long hike at Port Hardy. Left dock around 6am to get tide and reach Wellborne channel narrows. Forecast for Johnstone strait said ok til 12pm then 25-30 knot winds. On ebb tide (against NW wind) could be bumpy. So we tentatively planned to go to Port Harvey Marina Resort (closed but allowed to tie up to docks) or if really bad Port Neville public dock. Green rapids was near slack so no problem, cruised up chancellor (need to confirm name) channel to turn up Wellborne passage. Got to Whirlpool rapids near slack and only a few large but mellow whirlpools. On to Sunderland channel and out to Johnstone strait. The strait was mildly bumpy at first and got better and better. By passed Port Neville public dock, by passed Port Harvey inlet and northward up the strait. Got calmer and calmer with less wind and sun came out for last part of cruise. NICE! Got to Port McNeill around 2pm, secured dockage. They wanted to put us on a west side of a side tie and Alex had me ask for slip which they did give us. Alex knew smart move as the wind kicked up to 20-40 knotts in evening and it would have slammed us up against docks!
We had a short walk about town and then hung out in the boat. Lost local channels. Paid for two nights as not a good weather window until Sunday. also went over to see the worlds largest burl, indeed was big!
The plan for the 2019 boating season is to start in Laconner WA and travel to Skagway in SE Alaska in the May to September time frame via the inside passage. We never try have detailed timelines when we are cruising and let the real time experience’s and weather drive the day to day decisions. We can roughly divide the trip in to major sections:
Laconner Wa to Port Hardy, BC, Canada 290 nm Left Laconner May 14th, Port Hardy last week May 2019
Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, BC, Canada 270 nm Depart Late May arrive Early June 2019
Prince Rupert to Petersburg, AK 200 nm Depart early June to arrive mid June
Petersburg to Juneau, AK 120 nm Mid June to late June
Juneau to Skagway, AK 100 nm Late June to Early July 2019
The Red marked locations are larger cities with stores for provisioning with a marina and stores. The purple air plane symbols are cities with airports that you can fly in too and the remaining blue are small cities/marinas or anchorages that may be visited on the trip.
Leg-1: Laconner To Port Hardy
Inside Vancouver Island Leg 290 nm
The first leg of the trip is the area we cruised in 2018 which contains the San Juan Islands in the US followed by the Gulf Islands, Sunshine Coast, Straight Of Georgia, Desolution Soumd, Johnstone Strait and Broughtons in British Columbia. All this part of the route is in the rain shadow of Vancouver Island which creates great cruising with sunny weather and calm waters. The State Parks on the US side and Provencial Parks on the BC side are great stops with hiking trails and easy access to shore for the dog’s. It remains to be seen if access for hiking and dogs to shore further north of this area is OK for us.
The start of this leg from Port Hardy will require a passage around Cape Caution which has a reputation of being very rough if wind is coming from the west and ebb currents are coming out of the straights to the east. Will need to pick a good weather window and time the tides for this.
This area is made up of Fitz Hugh Sound, Fisher Channe, Burke Channel, Dean Channel and Bella Coola. The first stop will most likely be Millbrook or Fury Cove anchorages after the passage.
Namu: (Deserted Cannery)
The first location of note is Namu where we anchor at Rock Inlet anchorage next to Namu, BC. Namu is a small fishing port, former cannery town and First Nations community . Lots of abandoned building etc to take a look at.
Ocean Falls is an almost deserted town which has just a few dozen or so people living there full time and still has ferry service. There is a dock with power and water available. A power plant is above the the town producing hydro power. There is hiking on trails up to the lake etc so should be a good place to stretch our legs.
May stop at Klemtu at the free public dock to check out the lodge if we can get a space at the dock and all looks OK.
Butedale: (Almost-DESERTED Cannery)
Butedale is another abondened cannery that evidently does have a care taker (Cory) with a dock and water. Last info I can find is from 2017 so we will have to see how the place is in 2019.
This is the last stop in Canada, or port of entry when returning from Alaska, before re-entering US waters.
We will be anchoring out along the way but there a quite a few substantial towns along the way we will stop at.
Ketchikan
This is our port of entry for US and is the first place in US for folks to fly in too an airport. Pretty large town with provisioning etc.
Meyers Chuck
Very small town where we may dock or anchor out near the dock. It is located in Tongass National Forest and there is a trail head but may not be that well maintained of a trail.
Wrangell
Another large town with air port.
Petersburg
Last large town on the leg, also has airport service.
Leg-4 Petersburg To Juneau
MIDDLE SE ALASKA, Tracy Arm Glacier Leg
120 nm
This leg has no major towns between Petersburg and Juneau but does contain many nice anchorages and Tracy Arm. Tracy Arm is a very famous fjord for glacier viewing. We will anchor at Tracy Arm Entrance Cove where it is about a 23 nm trip up to the head of Tracy arm to see South Sawyer Glacier.
Sawyer Glacier is known as the premier glacier to see in SE Alaska.
Patty and I visited Tracy Arm years ago in a go fast catamaran from a cruise ship and it is a very pretty trip with fantastic wild life, seals etc, on the trip in.
We will have to see how open the water is on the way in with ice and bergie bits. We may follow the local excursion boats that arrive from Juneau around noon each day and stay at least 1/2 mile away from the glacier itself. Calving of the glacier can produce large waves and 1/2 mile is closest that is allowed for safety.
The major area to see is the Glacier Bay National Park. The glaciers are not as scenic as Tracy Arm but is still spectacular. No dogs are allowed on land in the park which puts a bit of a damper on our enthusiasm for the park. If we go in we will need to leave the dog’s in Juneau for a couple day’s at a dog kennel place or see if we can convince ourselves we can keep dogs on boat and have them use the dog mat.
This is our last voyage for our 2018 PNW trip. We are laying water Dog up on the hard in La Conner at La Conner Maritime Services until May of 2019. Having the yard go over generator’s and clean raw water systems on mains. Like to get the raw water inter-coolers for main’s, genny’s, stabilizers and bow thruster cleaned and checked out every three years or so. I usually do this work myself but since we are not going to be near the boat until next year going to have the yard perform the work.
It was yet another easy cruise of 35 nm where we averaged 9 knots and arrived at La Conner Marina around 2 pm. We got a side tie on the inside of the dock to prevent getting hit by other boats fighting the current as happened at our last stop here.
We spent four day’s at the marina getting the boat ready to haul. Fresh water flushed out board engines, tied down covers, stowed fenders, changed oil in (2)mains and (2)genny’s etc over the four day’s. On the 18 th we moved the 100 ft or so over to the travel lift at La Conner Maritime Services and hauled Water Dog out.
The Micron-66 bottom paint on the hull looks pretty good after being applied at Bay Marine in San Francisco Bay in the summer of 2017 to Sep 2018.
There was quite a bit of growth on the metal raw water intakes which where also painted with Micron-66. Not sure why more growth than the hulls but suspect the metal screens provide a better structure for growth.
Surprisingly did not see a temp increase on the engines with this amount of growth.
Bow thruster also had quite a bit of growth. It would seem that you get more growth in the San Juan area than San Francisco Bay.
Had prop speed applied on last haul out but was not happy with it’s performance which shown below is just 5 months. Last time had primer and bottom paint applied in Florida which worked much better. After to talking to yard will try the cheap zinc spray coating this time.
The zinc’s on Water Dog where new when we left San Francisco Bay in May and where almost gone when we pulled her out in Sep, only 5 months. Zinc’s have easily lasted 2 years before so not sure why so much more worn for this trip. We did do around 1200 nm so zincs on rudders may just be water wear from props but does not explain hull zincs. Will need to checl galvanic isolators on shore ground when we get back next year. We have isolation transformers on AC hot/neutral so dont suspect them.
Got up early for a fairly long leg to head back to the US customs at Roche Harbor. Stopped at Poets Cove in BC on the way so we could get in early in the morning at the customs dock in Roche Harbor. We had overcast weather for our three day stay in Roche. Pretty much had sunshine for the rest of the trip so this late in the season the weather may be starting to turn.
We ended up pulling in to a open spot at the US customs dock located on the outside of the marina at 10 am. Got boarded and did get boat searched by officer but only took about 20 mins. We then headed out and anchored out a few hundred yards in front of the marina.
We then went in to the dinghy dock on west side of the marina on the inside next to the general store and shops.
You will find the old generator plant and coke ovens right above the marina that are worth a look.
We then headed west of the marina down Reuben Memorial Drive to visit the Sculpture Park and Micmillin Mausoleum. The mausoleum is to the left of the Sculpture Park down Afterglow Drive where you can follow a number of small trails up to the right on Afterglow.
Beginning of trails on Afterglow Drive.
The mausoleum itself is cool with a missing collum designed in with Mcmillin family ashes contained in the base of the concrete chairs circling the table in the middle.
The next day we hiked over to English Camp and then took the San Juan Bus shuttle back to the marina to cut the hike distance down. We walked down the nice trail along Roche Harbor Road to Westcott Drive which runs along the bottom of Westcott Bay. At the end of Westcott Drive you end up at Westcott Bay shellfish Company with the trail head in to English Camp on the left.
Above English Camp across West Valley Road there are some more nice trails along with a small cemetery containing a few graves of some of the original english soldiers.
That night we finally got to see the famous changing of the guard at the grassy point in the middle of the marina. The marina dock guy’s put the show on and do a great job of playing tap’s and lowering the flag.
Our PNW 2018 trip is coming to a close as we arrive at the Union Steamship Marina for the 2018 Kadey Krogen PNW Rendevous. The rendevous is from the 7 th to 9th and we are due in Laconner WA to put Water Dog on the hard on the 18 th.
Union is a very nice family run marina and we will be stopping by again when we get a chance.
On Patty’s birthday we got to go out to dinner at the marina restaurant with Wayne and Linda whom where there for the rendevous also on Tribute a Krogen 36.
The next day we walked above the marina cutting through Bowen uptown on Prometheus Pl. Where Prometheus intersects Grafton Rd we found a cut through to Carter Rd where the trail starts.
The next day we took a walk with a bunch of the Krogen guy’s to Kellarney Lake. The trail start system for this hike starts right across from the marina on Union road right past the Bowen Island Visitor center.
All the Krogen 42’s, around a dozen of them, stern tied on the inside of A dock. There also where a Krogen 55, 52, a few 48’s along with Wayne and Linda’s 36 docked scattered through out the rest of the marina.
Very short trip from Jedediah to Smugglers Cove anchorage we arrived around 11 am.
Smugglers Cove is a small all-weather anchorage on the south side of Sechelt Peninsula. Their is access to it by land where you can hike in 4 km from a parking lot off Hwy 101.
The entrance is narrow and we ended up stern tying on the north shore at the first location along the bank that had a stern tie chain bolted to the rocks. Stern tie chains are located in the first cove we anchored in along all side of the small cove. Further in past south of France Inlet are even more anchoring spots available. The walls are steep so you can stern tie up very close to the shore. We did have a good south west wind pick up that came in over Capri Isle over night so did go ahead and run a second shoreline to back up the 3/8″ poly line. We are now upgrading to 600′ of 5/8″ poly for next year to sleep better in high winds. The park has some nice hiking trails with views accessed at the sound end of the inner cove via dinghy.
Water Dog stern tied to shore just inside entrance on north shore. The stern tie rings go from out location in along the entire edge of the main cove. Also more rings on the inside coves.
The first day we went to the dinghy landing on the south side of the inner cove and walked the trail to the right which takes you to the entrance to the cove on the south side.
The next day we went to the left at the dinghy landing and walked over the board walk out to the road access point for the park. The trail utilizes a board to walk over a large marshy area which contained multiple beaver dams.
The beaver dams are hard to spot but each one seems to have a drainage pipe installed by the park to let some water by the dam to provide water further down? Beaver dam below with irrigation cage/pipe in front of it.
Yet another short un-stressfull trip in the PNW to Jedediah Porvincial Park.
Very cool spot which was purchased from Al and Mary Palmer, owners of the island since 1949. Their house is still there along with the field and orchard on the inland side of the house. The estate of the late Daniel Culver committed $1.1 million to Jedediah’s preservation which the Palmers sold under market price. The Island also has some to old-growth stands of Douglas fir and arbutus along the trails which is way cool.
We went in and checked out Deep Bay Anchorage which looked to small for us and then the small cove directly underneath it so the south. The small cove, yellow orange dot below, had a couple boats in so we needed to find another spot to anchor. We then went back around north of the Island to Cod Fish Cove. Turned out to be a great choice.
Once we got to Cod Fish Cove we at first stern anchored up to the shore behind us but the wind from the North was kicking up making us worried the stern line might part so we decided to take it in. Learned a lesson on long stern lines in that if there is a single wrap in the line when you start that it may wrap itself around itself many many times as try to pull the loop back in to the boat. Had to go in to shore and unravel 300′ of line that had wrapped 40-50 turns upon itself, no fun.
At the north end of Cod Fish Cove is a very nice fairly steep rocky bank dinghy beach. No mud no fuss.
The island has some nice hiking trails to explore. As shown below the first day we took the trail from Cod Fish Bay, on the lower right, to the cross hatched area where the fields and orchard are. Al and Mary Palmers old house is down on the south east corner of the orchard and field to the right once you enter the field area.
On the path over from Cod Fish Cove you pass a drift wood beach.
Pretty cool these guy’s lived here for many years in a very pretty but isolated place. I can understand why you would want to do it!
At the dinghy landing in Cod Fish Cove you will notice a small trail going off to the left which will lead you to a steep but very nice trail up to Gibraltar Peak.
The next day we took the hike across the field to take a look at Long and Deep Bay’s toward the north side of the island.
Another short rip and nice weather for the trip from Comox Harbour To Tribune Bay anchorage on Hornby Island. Hornby Island has a plethora of hiking trails about a mile away to the west of the anchorage we did not get too. We ended up doing the hike to the east of the anchorage in Helliwell Provincial Park that was one of our all time favorites. We also did mot make it too the Hornby Island Co-Op Ring Side Market but heard that it is well worth a visit.
The anchorage is huge, we ended anchoring out a ways from the crowd at the head along the cliffs along the east side ringed with hidden houses along the High Salal Public Trail. This trail is very cool along the water and the early part runs between houses on private land that the owners have given permission for public access. Very cool attitude for these land owners, wish more places where like this!
We started the hike by beaching the dinghy at the head of the anchorage on the beach. We ended tying up to some rocks on the right side of beach since the beach has a very gradual slope so at low tide there is 40-50′ of beach your dinghy can get stranded on. We walked through the small Outdoor Education Center to the right of the beach to a trail going along Saint Johns Point Road and too a right on High Salal Drive.
About a half mile down High Salal Drive on the right is the first entrance to High Salal Public Trail which runs behind the houses on the cliff. A little further down is another entrance where the trail moves to in front of the houses directly above the bay.
The view along the trail is spectacular. The trail merges with Helliwell Park Trail marked by some park signs when returning back from Helliwell.
Once you get out towards Saint Johns Point it flattens out a bit with nice rocky beaches.