Our planned route in OpenCpn is in blue, our actual track of the voyage is in fusia.
NOAA Marine Zone Forecast PZZ255 Marine Zone Forecast
N wind 5 to 10 kt, rising to 10 to 15 kt in the afternoon. Wind waves N 2 ft at 4 seconds. W swell 6 ft at 11 seconds. Secondary swell S 3 ft at 16 seconds. Patchy drizzle in the morning.
Nice short trip was nice after the last few longer ones.
We really enjoyed Newport since there are trails out the beaches on each side of the jetty and also some town walking with shops for Patty.
We almost got stuck in Florence as mentioned in the last blog since the Siuslaw Bar closes almost every day when the current starts going out and the swell steepens and start breaking in the entrance. We had a 0700 Florence bridge opening but when we heard S/V Tango on channel 22 getting escorted out we got going and mad it out the bar for An uneventfull short trip to Newport where we arrived at 0100. We ended up staying two nights where for the first day we hiked out to the beach on the south side of jetty and on the next day hiked over the US 101 bridge to Newport on the North side of river. The Port Of Newport Marina is the first recreational boaters marina we have seen since we left san Francisco. The working boats stay across the river to the North at Newport.
It was opening day for Halibut and the cleaning tables where packed with people cleaning fish.
For the hike out to the beach you start on the trail under the south side of the bridge and proceed down the south jetty.
You then can cut over to the left on to the trails through the dunes to get off the road as we did if you like.
Our first evening we checked out the Rogue Brewery. There are also Rogue spirits. This place is a true farm to table organization as they have Rogue farms which grow grains, hops and flavoring veges (ie cucumber gin) and then incorporate into the beer or spirits. Dinner was ok (not great food…go for the beer).
The next morning we took a short walk on the Estuary Trail across from marina to the east and then on over to South Beach for lunch of oysters and Halibut. Freshest fish we found in Newport.
A little later in the day we walked over the US 101 Bridge to Newport proper. A bit of a tourist town but is was nice to see a number of fish processing plants along the shoreline along the main drag.
we then took a short walk under the north end of the bridge towards the beach and then turned back to the right up the trial towards the bridge for trip back.
Warning: We found that the Siuislaw bar closes more often than others along the coast and opened only on the after the slack tide incoming current, twice each day. This is even with nice seas with 3-4’ swell. With the bridge tender asking for minimum two hour call before opening got dicey having to call bridge tender with bar closed a couple hours before high slack and you just hope the bar opens.
Here is a web page we found will all the bar status that would be a good idea to get closings as you go.
Washington/Oregon Bar Reports (Open or restricted Etc):
Fairly short leg to Florence which we have enjoyed visiting by car so we decided to stop there for a few day’s. About half way there the starboard stabilizer fin stopped moving the way it should on the TRAC monitor where it just floated around center. I went ahead and went below to mid-ship space and pinned the fin to disable it. Water Dog handles well in moderate seas with one fin so all is well.
Florence is about four miles up from the Siuslaw river entrance and has some nice looking sandy beaches along the starboard side with more development along the port.
We pulled up to the guest dock for a side tie that’s just past the bridge on the port side of river.
We happened to arrive on Rhody(Rhododendron) day at Florence so they had the fair in town with rides and games as well as the local Harley riders.
Had a great bowl of Crab Chowder at little floating place Novelli’s crab shack … all seafood from their own boat.
Took a walk just north of guest dock where the Port Of Siuslaw office is and their nice RV park.
The people at the port were all super nice.
The next day we want over and got 840 gallons of diesel at $2.28 per gallon, a great price right now. No high speed pump so took a couple hours to pump but Jasen was very nice to watch the pump for that long.
We went out to dinner one night. Someone had recommended the Firehouse Grill for the best clam chowder. Another local passed by and mentioned the Water Front Depot as the best place to eat. I (Patty) had seen it on yelp as the best restaurant in town so when Alex wanted to divert I said sure. We had a great meal at the bar with an attentive and friendly bartender, Tom. When I asked for good sipping Tequilla he offered one up which was good. He suggested cinnamon instead of salt prior to the tequilla then follow with an orange slice YUM!…. Alex asked for a special drink which Tom made (bourbon or scotch based drink)
Ended up the starboard stabilizer fin hydrolic cyclinder nut had come loose so the fin was not longer attached to it and was swinging free. Ended up taking it out to make sure cylinder OK and re-installing Wed.
We called for 0700 bridge opening the night before but at 0700 bar was closed so we called to cancel. We then heard Tango being escorted out by coast guard and called bridge back to open and we where lucky enough because he was still on bridge (we actually ended up going through at our scheduled time of 7am).
This leg of the trip is the first of one of the longer legs so we decided to leave at 05:00 in the dark from Spud Point Marina. We had our track into Bodega Bay on OpenCpn which I could follow on the way out. Murphy’s law hit and our hand held search light went out when we cleared the marina and in the dark went slightly past “R”34 marker and ran aground. Luckily we were going slow and I was able to back off and get off the ground but it was a bit exciting since could see nothing. Patty was a real sport and stood on the bow trying to use a flash light to find the markers on the rest of the way out.
Calm flat seas today and we rounded Point Arena with no problems but did have to dodge a lot of crab pots. On night trips we cannot see the pots so we keep outside at least the 300’ depth line where the water is usually too deep for pots. On the way we have noticed pots out too 270’.
Arrived at Fort Bragg (Noyo Harbor) at 13:30 in good shape.
This harbor is for smaller size boats and we fit in but with some effort.
Noyo Harbor is another fishing working harbor, like Spud Point Marina, where not many pleasure boats visit. Many of the nice older classic wooden fishing boats as well as newer steel hulled ones were in the harbor.
There is not much to do at Noyo Harbor but there is a nice stretch of grass in front of the marine for the dogs to play with the chuck it.
Monday May 14 2018
Monday morning we took a hike out the front of the marina and out to US 101 to the Pomo Bluffs park that is on the ocean on the south side of the entrance to the harbor. On the way back we stopped at the Harvest Market which is a high end very nice market just outside the marina.
Saturday morning we got out at 7:00am bound for Bodega Bay for the first leg of trip up coast to the PNW.
Nice day but not perfect conditions with the forecast for 10-20 kt winds with wind waves 3-5 ft and NW swell at 4-6 ft. Did notice buoy data at Station 46214 – Point Reyes showed wave hights of 14’ but this station is quite a ways out from Point Reyes at 21 nm and should die down a bit by the time we got there. Made the decision to go since things should be improving later in day according to grib data from Predictwind.
Here is the NOAA forecast that morning:
12NM SW San Francisco CA
Marine Zone Forecast
May 12 NOAA Forecast
NW winds 10 to 20 kt…with gusts to 25 kt this morning. Winds becoming SW 10 to 20 kt in the afternoon. Wind waves 3 to 5 ft. NW swell 4 to 6 ft at 12 seconds. Patchy fog in the afternoon.
Due to swell from NW it was almost too much to take short cut, not use the shipping channel through Bonita Channel but turned out OK to cut across. Did hit some good wave though cutting through.
When coming across Point Reyes the 3 to 5 ft NW swell was easily 10-14 feet and we pitched heavily until we rounded point and headed toward Bodega Bay which took the waves off our nose and more on our beam which the stabilizers took care of. Hollie looked a bit sea sick, sea dog Terra just got a little wide eyed. Patty took a meclizine sea sickness pill at this point, I had taken one at Bonita channel crossing.
The winds clocked around to the SW which helped push us to 9-10 knot speed for final leg in too Bodega Bay Spud Point Marina when we docked at end of C dock at 1:30pm.
Spud point is mostly a working fishing boat marina with many very nice old wooden fishing boats.
Week end guy at Spud Point Marina was very nice and too good care of us. If no one in office just look for a guy/girl in a blue uniform and ask to check in.
That afternoon for Lunch we got white clam chowder st the Spud Point Crab Co across from the Spud Point Marina office, amazing stuff. We went back the next day for another bowl each it was so good.
Saturday May 12
Got going on our hike for the day walking down the back road just outside the main road circling the North end of Bodega Bay to go in too town across the bay on the east side from marina. Plan was to walk to town and then do a dune walk on the way back.
We passed the other small marina and bay side RV Park on the way. RV park has small spaces and looks like it used mostly by people fishing.
On the way back via the same route we cut through the Bodega Bay camp ground in the woods too find a path to the dunes to the west. Really nice looking camp ground for an RV or camper.
While waiting for our weather window on Saturday we decided to head over to Ballena Bay Marina on Alameda Island for an overnight stay on Tuesday. The marina has been sold by Almar to a new owner which is replacing some the old decrepit docks with nice new ones.
We pulled in too the guest dock to the West of the fuel dock and where surprised to see a Krogen Whale Back docked at the guest docks also.
We took a hike out of the marina and then keeping along the Bay south of the marina to the Alameda Park along the bay. Nice hike to end of park
On way back went out to small point to see entrance the Ballena Bay looking out to bay to the east.
Wed-Friday May 9-10
Cruised over to San Francisco Small Boat Harbor Marina just inside the Golden Gate Bridge to spend Wed and Friday.
On Thursday we walked through the Marina Green East of the marina past Fort Mason and then around to the Safeway grocery before heading back to boat.
Friday morning we took Lyft ride from marina to Lands End near the Sutro Baths with the dogs and walked back along shore line to the Golden Gate Bridge back to the marina. This is one of our favorite hikes and is very beautiful.
Dog’s got to swim at Bakers Beach then again nearer the marina at Crissy Field Beach.
Saturday morning we got out at 7:00am bound for Bodega Bay for the first leg of trip up coast.
Monday April 30 to May 8
Lots of work on boat to get ready for our trip up the Pacific coast starting at San Francisco Bay, up the Northern California coast then Oregon and Washington State. The waters up the coast are known to be fairly rough at times so you need to be well prepped. We loaded up the 1100 pounds(400 foot) of 3B ½” chain in to the back of the pickup and hauled it over to the boat ramp in our marina where Joe our next door boat neighbor was nice enough to help us load the chain with his heavy duty inflatable. We then hauled chain up in to chain locker with the windlass from the opposite side of the dock where the dinghy was from Water Dog’s bow. Went well and only took ½ hour or so.
We also had the 6 man Viking life raft inspected by Sal’s Inflatables in Alameda for $2400(ouch!) and used the dinghy crane to haul it up in out cargo net to place in it’s cradle.
Next up we put up the plexiglass storm windows on the Port side to protect the windows from any large waves we should not encounter but better safe than sorry.
We also epoxy glued some more WeldMount Footmans Straps in to lazzerate to use with 1” NRS rafting straps to make sure nothing moves while underway. We use blue tape to hold them in place until the epoxy glue cures.
Big Bend is a beautiful place with great hiking but dogs are only allowed where cars can drive so no hiking with them unless you are on a paved or dirt road.
Stopped at panther Junction to get camping permit for the primitive road camp sites but all was full and we would need to stay over night outside the park! Presidents day weekend ugh…
Primitive camping in Big Bend is first come first serve where you get a two week window for 12$ where the ranger at Panther Junction will tell you what sites are available on what day’s and you can pick the night and locations you want.
We did pay and get assigned Gravel pit 3 for one night then 2 nights at Paint gap 2 (dispersed campgrounds, dry camping).
Since nothing available the night we arrived so they send people like us to Stillwell ranch or Terlingua which is just outside of NW park entrance. We ended up at Terlingua Resort in parking lot type place for the night.
The people running it where real nice and there are some nice walks out back of the park and dogs did get to run a bit.
To burn some time for the afternoon we drove over from the camp ground to the Terlingua Ghost Town which contained a store, bar/theater, an art gallery and coffe shop and some old adobe ruins.
Very interesting place to stop with a certain desert counter culture vibe to it.
In front of the art gallery is a molten metal slag heap of gears etc melted together from an oil well fire.
Friday February 16th we did driving tour. Left Terlingue and went back into park. Immediate SW took Old Maverick dirt road after entering park down to St Elena Canyon (made by Rio Grande, 1500 foot cliffs).
The road was well graded and any car could travel it.
On the way we stopped at a marker for Luna’s Jacal where Gilberto Luna lived, pretty amazing he lived to 108. Very primitive and makes you think of the huge disparity of all the things we think we need verses what you actually require.
At Santa Elena Canyon Trail Took 1.6 mile hike into canyon (no dogs).
The trail starts on the US side of the Rio Grand, with Mexico on the far side, and winds up the canyon wall to the right.
We then drove on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive and saw Mule Ear and had lunch at an overlook.
Then went back out to the main drag Hwy 118 past Panther Junction to SE edge of park near Rio Grande Village and took walk to Boquillas Canyon which was another short hike.
You will find Mexican wire art and walking sticks left by Mexican’s for sale in little piles on the trail where you can purchase by leaving money in can next to items. Park Service does not want you to buy of course.
Then drove to our Gravel Pit 3 camp down river road then gravel pit road. Ended up being pretty nice as we could walk down to river. DOOnt let the Gravel Pit name put you off, would say this was a lot nicer than what we saw at Pain Gap. Dogs had a swim, saw a Mexican horse but no illegal immigrants ?. Had Calm night (No fire) but I heard someone in middle of night drive up which scared me a bit…just someone camping I guess.
Saturday Feburary 17th: Drove to Chisos Basin from Gravel Pit and had a long range view from road of mountains the basin is in.
When you get to the high point of Chisoc Basin Road you get a view down in to the basin where the camp ground is. The entry to camp ground is on the right once you descend in to the basin.
We were lucky and the camp hosts gave us a site that some had reserved and had not shown up and found a campsite as we got there around 12pm. This is a very pretty camp ground with pretty good privacy for how crowded it is. Also a great place to take guest hikes from since multiple trail heads are within walking distance.
Then hiked to the Window trail that start right in camp ground.
Illegal hike in afternoon with dogs from campground to lodge and Alex had a drink.
Lots of small rental units around the lodge for rent with many nationalities from around the world taking advantage of them.
Then went to check out our Paint Gap camp which had a nice view of the outside of the basin but was a dust pit with no cell service. Decided to drive on to Lajitas and stayed in Lajitas Golf Resort campground. It was ok…just had soup and went to bed.
Headed south towards Big Bend with plans to stay at Seminole Canyon State park for two nights. Arrived around 2-3 pm. Opted for electric site with pretty good cell service at the sites at the end of camp ground past first set of sites.
Some neighbors in Cougar 5th wheel from Netherlands and Canada. They spend six months traveling and six months in Netherlands.
We chilled that afternoon and planned (and did) stay two nights.
Wednesday February 14th we took nice rim hike (about 7.5 miles) with dogs. It went to rim and overlook on Pecos river canyon joining Seminole Canyon then out to border/ Rio Grande where the Pecos river dumps into the Rio Grande.
The trail starts at the lower camp ground at point A on map on the Rio Grande Trail, click on map below to enlarge. We then took a left at point C on Canyon Rim Trail. Keeping left at point B takes you to the Panther Cave Overlook where you can see the Glyph’s across the river if you have binoc’s or a zoom. We then completed the loop around the bend on the Mexico border back to point D on the Rio Grande Trail.
Canyons are deep with steep walls. Not a border crossing area hear. At end of trail there are petroglyphs across the way, only can get there by boat but we could just see large panther tail. The Glyphs are across the river and using the camera zoom was able to get a decent idea what they look like.
Picture of left side of Glyphs, if you click on picture and zoom in you can see fan shapes on bottom of 4th and 5th figures to the left of panther on over look sign.
Got back and chilled then cooked dinner and left next day. Rio grand slow here as down stream is large Amistad national reservoir.
We left Natchez early Sunday morning to go to Garner State Park for some hiking on some trails we had read about taking small back roads as usual.
Route: HWY 21 SW, then 12, then 32west, then 3424 South, then 306w, then 281north, then 473W, then 27 through Comfort, TX. Then 39 scenic route SW to 83 south then 1050 to the state park.
On the way over to Garner Patty found the highly rated Picket House Restaurant which is in an old house and serves boarding house style fixed menu. The walls are covered with antique circus posters and would recommend a stop there.
Fried chicken, chicken and dumplings, biscuits/corn bread was very good and very unique.
Once done with lunch we ran in to a very cool small town Comfort Texas: stopped for coffee at Highs Coffe shop, had a bunch of old buildings made of limestone. Went in antique mall and found an ice cream scoop to give to Richard.
On Highway 39 we were along the Guadalupe river, very cool but not much river access as mostly youth camps and residences. Saw one public boat ranch
On HWY 39 and 83 we saw a bunch of big ranches with very tall fences. I guessed and then later confirmed these were game hunting ranches with exotic ungulates as well as dear and pigs.
This is the hill country of Texas and is dry but beautiful.
Arrived at Garner: had site 143 in river crossing camp which had nice river view.
This place is great on the off season while we are here but during the summer seems very popular with the crowds. Has putt putt course and boat rental and tube rental and shuttles so likely in hot Texas summer its very crowded.
Walked Blynn river trail that evening very clear fairly rapid flowing river, The river is the Rio Frio which means cold river.
Dogs got wet fun!
Had Taco Soup from Alice for dinner ?
It seems during season the Texas two step is popular at the “Dancing The Nights Away” at the “Garners Historic Pavilion”.
Monday February 12th
Woke up early and took near 5 mile hike on park trails Blyn River to Bridges trail to Foshee trail up to Old Baldy then down. Great hike with awesome views. Dogs swam at beginning as we started on the Blynn River trail.
Got back from hike and had chile. Hope to have fire tonight…we did eventually, burned half our wood.
Left around 10am. Stopped at Macon’s house as he wanted to see the rig. Drove a bit on I-10 through Baton Rouge then scenic HWY 61 to Natchez. Stayed at Natchez tourist visitor center parking lot with electric for free for two nights!
Really nice town and we discovered that Natchez Mardi Gras was the next night so decided to stay another night to see it.Basically the parking lot with 15A outlets at each space.
A lot of road noise and a parking slots not level. Got fairly level by putting right front wheel up on curb by pulling up then backing tire back up in ramp built in curb, worked pretty well.
A suggested river side hike is a loop up on the upper side walk along top of the Natchez river walk and return by the nature path down below by the river. You can go through the middle of the tourist center and through the Centers pavilion down the side of the road and then take a left in to Rosalie fort.
Rosalie mansion is next to the Fort where you get a great view in front of mansion of the river.
Then proceed to the right along fence on river then you will find a break in fence in too river front park at the top trail with railing you follow past the Casino below until you reach the far end where stairs descend to the nature trail below.
You then can follow nature trail on lower path all the way back to town of Natchez Under The Hill where Jerry Lee Lewis played and follow road back up to the Visitor center.
We actually cut through by walking down the rail road tracks and then scrambled up the hill to the back of the center where a gate was located with a chair sitting there for some ones viewing pleasure.
The next morning we took a long walk around town doing mansion walking tour and did go inside Rosalie Mansion for a tour.
For lunch we dined on BBQ at The Pig Out Inn along with the local police force. Highly recommended and a very popular place with the locals.
Then walked the dogs and watched them line up floats and bands for Natchez Mardi Gras parade! We took dogs back and then went back downtown to watch parade. Was fun to see, not as many of floats as New Orleans but nice to share in celebration.