Grace Harbour is our first stop in the BC Desolution Sound Provencial Marine Park system. The park has three main anchorages: Prideaux Haven, Tenedo’s Bay and Grace Harbour. We plan to visit Grace and Tenedo’s.
This park has long been a boater’s favorite in the Malaspina Inlet and Homfray Channel area. The warm waters of the park make for great swimming and their are nice hiking trails at the anchorages.
We headed north from Powell River and then took a right at the entrance to Okeover Arm Inlet to Malaspina Inlet where Grace Harbour anchorage is located.
Grace Harbour Entrance
Desolution Sound Park Sign Grace Harbour Entrance
We went to the north east side at the head of Grace Harbour where we anchored in 30′ or so in a nice mud bottom.
Looking West Grace Harbour Anchorage
On the west side of anchorage is a nice dinghy landing spot with a trail to Black Lake.
Dinghy Landing Grace Harbour
Grace Harbour Trail To Black Lake Map
Patty On Black Lake Trail
Patty And Dogs Black Lake Trail
Black Lake
Terra at Black Lake
Holly at Black Lake
It is very evident from all the old equipment found all over these areas that logging was everywhere and old growth forest are just left in small patches here and there.
Big day… off to Chatterbox falls in Princess Louisa inlet. Alex thought we might be departing later to catch the Malibu rapids at entrance to the inlet at slack…. then he realized we had to leave NOW ?…so we got going quickly and cruised up Agammemnon Channel and in to Jervis Inlet. Was worried the ebbing tidal current, shown ebbing at 13:45 PDT at Malibu Rapids diagram below, would slow us down and we would miss our slack window. Did not see anything over a knot or so of current on the trip up so all good. Malibu Rapids at Princess Louisa Inlet can have up to 10 knots currents with a narrow dog leg in the middle so nothing to trifle with. Even with making close to slack we had 2-3 knots flood going in.
John Henry Marina Too Chatter Box FallsPrincess Luisa Current 8/11/2018
Gloomy cloudy day and ended up raining too. At first a bit disappointed about rain but later realized this created many waterfalls in the fjord. Easy cruise and got to the rapids a bit before slack with incoming 2-3 knott current. Announced our transit and through we went. Entrance dog legs to the right and a bit of an S curve but since we had timed it well not a problem. A 110 foot boat Alliance went through before us. We did not see it but wondered about navigating a long boat like that through the inlet.
Rapids Entrance, Dog Leg Right Past Rock On Right
Rapids Middle of Dog Leg
Right near the entrance to Princess Louisa Inlet is a Christian kids camp. It
must be for rich kids as what a place! Beautiful grounds, swim area, ski boats,
SUPS, volleyball etc…. looked very swanky.
Fancy Kids Camp At Malibu Rapids
Arrived at the falls..it rained much of the way up the inlet but this created the waterfalls. The dock was full (we are too big for dock anyway) and there were several boats anchored to the west of the falls. I urged Alex to squeeze in right in front of the falls which he did YAY!! They guys went to stern tie us but it would have been on east side of falls and ranger came out to say not a good idea to tie there but she said we likely did not need to stern tide due to the current from the falls. So no stern tie but right in front of falls four our 3 day stay.
Water Dog At Chatter Box Falls
View from Starboard Chatter Box
View from Stern Chatter Box
Port Side Cliffs Chatter Box
We all checked out the falls and then settle in for evening. We had some left over dungenous crab so I made crab coconut soup. I added Ramen noodles at the end and it complemented it well.
Next day we deployed SUPS and kayaks and all did a bit of both. Took Dinghy to MacDonald island and took a short hike on Ming’s Loop, nice walk through the woods to the inlet. Got back and did some more SUPing and hanging.
Alex Suping Chatter Box
Patty, Gary and Marsha Dinghy Ride To Macdonald Island
Mings Loop Macdonald Island
Mings Loop TrailDighy Dock Macdonald IslandMacdonald MapTerra Enjoying Ride Back from Macdonald Island
Unfortunately a yacht we had seen at John Henry “Shiatz” showed up and anchored next to us. They had these motorized self-propelled wake boards which were an annoyance. Alex asked that they keep them away but they still ruined the serenity. Unfortunately the ranger was gone for the time they were there so they were not shut down (one would think they would not be allowed). After the fact we should have told them of 4 mph speed limit and maybe the would have respected that. Terrible behavior!
The next AM Gary and Marcia were to fly out around 2pm. We went to falls in AM, those guys took a kayak and then their float plane arrived. When we were kayaking kept getting the feeling were being watched for some reason hmmmmm……Later in the day the float plane arrived at the park dock and Gary and Marsha flew off into the mist…
Holly Overseeing Kayaking
More Holly Intent On Kayakers
Float Plane Taking Of from Chatter Box Falls
That afternoon we struck out on the trail to the
trapper’s cabin (Which continues up to the top where apparently there are
amazing views). Lots of warnings at beginning of how strenuous and unmaintained
the trail is. We heard various reports…45 minute walk 1.5 hour walk? Anyhow off
we went and it was very technical…lots of rocks and steep areas where one had
to pull on roots etc…. We got about ½ hour and then Terra balked…she had
enough…just too much for her with the steep inclines. So we turned around…I
think youngster Holly could have made it and likely I could have too but it was
a bit more than I liked too… maybe next time.
Trapper Cabin Hike Sign
Holly On Trapper Cabin Trail
Patty On Trapper Cabin Trail
So the entire time we were there it seems hazy. We
attributed it to humidity as it had rained but even on the last day when “sun”
was out it was hazy. Turns out it was the beginning of several day so bad SMOKE
from BC and Washington fires.
Exiting Princess Louisa Inlet
Exiting Princess Louisa Inlet
We would have stayed another day but the idiots on Shiatz continued to run
their motorized wake boards so we left and headed north to Powell river where
we could provision and refill water.
Hoisted anchor, headed north toward Nanaimo. Went through our first “rapids” Tod narrows. We were going with current at 3-4 knots and it was not an issue.
Holly Piloting Tod Narrows
When arrived twas a busy evening there with lots of boats had to anchor at edge of anchorage. After circling we ended up barely inside the outside markers as shown at the circler intersection of route below. There are some nice trails to hike from the Newcastle Park dock and a nice walk through a cool bohemian neighborhood on Protection Island from there dock shown below.
Nanaimo Anchorage
We went to nearby Newcastle island park and it was very nice. Old pulpstone quarry (for grinding lumber into pulp), also had coal mines but now a park with trails all around.
Newcastle Park Dock
Newcastle Park Dock
Newcastle Park Pulpstone
Newcastle Park Pulpstones
Newcastle Park Hike
Nice old dance floor/building built in early 1900s. At one point was a big destination for folks from Vancouver to visit (after mines and quarry closed). We were on island short time in afternoon and got back to boat about 5;20pm at which time a police boat came around and said we had to leave??? What they meant is we had to get off the boat. Apparently we had arrived on a day the Canadian Snowbirds (similar to blue angels in USA) were doing a practice show in the harbor and we had to be off the boat in case they crashed I guess. So we went to the Dinghy Dock pub on Protection island. We had some appetizers and beer and watched the show.
Dinghy Dock Pub
Crew At Dinghy Dock pub
Canadian Snowbirds Dinghy Dock Pub
Guys deployed crab traps after that and then we had dinner on the boat cooked up the crab we had caught in ganges with drawn butter and sides salad.
Next day we took dinghy into Nanaimo. Walked the town which was ok, a few stores and a couple galleries. Had lunch at pirates fish and chips place. It was good… halibut and chips for Gary and I and Alex and Marcia had Salmon. Went shopping at BC liquor and grocery then back to boat. Everyone was chilling and I was as usual not tired so I went to the island and jogged the perimeter trail (Cut short at end cause it twas long!). No wildlife sighted but nice jog on water and through forest of cedar and madrones. Dogs got to swim before, during and after. We had the red crab we had caught in Ganges for dinner.
Nanaimo Marina
Nanaimo Pioneer Plaza
Nanaimo Fort
Downtown Nanaimo
Plenty Crab For Dinner
Guys checked the traps and we had lots of Dungenous crabs
YAY. They took up traps but then regretted it since they had so many dungenous
so they went back out and deployed them.
The next AM they check traps (more crab) and we raised anchor to cruise across
strait of Georgia to Pender harbor/Garden Bay (which has several marinas).
AM we all got up and walked to breakfast and then guys went to BC liquor store and Marica and I started the shopping. Loaded up and then left marina a bit late. Heading for Ganges.
Anchored in Ganges harbor and planned to stay two nights.
One of the things you notice in the San Juan’s and BC Island areas are the the houses that are present in many areas on very small Islands with just a dock and house. This one stuck out as the smallest Island we saw which was right next to our anchor spot in Ganges.
House On Rock Ganges
Went ashore first night and walked around a bit. Ganges is a neat town with a “hippy” kind of vibe to it which we really enjoyed.
Welcome To Ganges
Found nice wood gallery and “leaf” dispensary where PJS acquired some sleeping aids. Found another small co-op gallery where we heard music which led us to Centennial park where some folks were playing and singing various things.
Centennial Park Entrance
Heiwa Garden In Centennial Park
Centennial Park Music Gathering
Walked along Ganges alley (small shops and eateries), along water found one of the many pianos set outside and then stumbled on to a trail out to grace point (required some rock climbing but very pretty). Back to boat. Gary, Alex and Holly deployed crab traps.
Piano On way To Grace Point
Crew On Grace Point Trail
Grace Point
Alex, Holly, Patty, Terra, Gary, Marsha At Grace Point
Next day planned to explore Ganges and do some walking. Found a park just outside of town that had some hiking and trees (Mouat’s park) where some early Japanese settlers had charcoal kilns.
Charcoal Kilns Mouat’s And Salt Spring Island
We all started walking together but then Gary and Marcia headed back to the farmer’s market and we walked dogs a bit longer.
Mouat’s Park Hike
Gary Melding With Mouat’s Stump Carving
Another Mouat’s Stump Carving
Gary Melding with Log Muat’s Hike
We later hooked up at farmer’s market and got some tomatos, bread, sweets and listened to music, followed by ice cream. Went to a few more galleries in town and then headed back to boat.
Farmers Market
Ganges Galleries
Gary, Holly and Alex Going Crabin
Ganges Sunset
The guys checked the traps and we had Dungeness and Red crab for dinner finishing with a great sunset.
Gary and Marsha are meeting us in Sidney on the 4 th so we decided to hoist Anchor and go over to Sidney Spit Anchorage for a night. Most boats anchor in near the park dock where it is more protected. After going up looking for a channel in deep enough for Water dog’s 5’3″ draft we chickened out and anchored out tucked up close to the beach on south side out of the prevailing SE winds.
Sidney Spit AnchorageWater Dog At Sidney SpitSidney Spit Park Dock
Had a nice walk on beach…it got dirty when on the strait of Georgia but was nice and clean facing the spit where we anchored.
Patty and Dogs Sidney Spit
Patty and Dogs Sidney Spit
Terra Having Fun
You can moor at the main park dock overnight if desire and space available. After beach walk went to the dock. Took a couple mile walk south on island through the trees then back through the campground.
Sidney Spit Park Map
Sidney Spit Trail
Sidney Spit Camp Ground
A couple old growth cedars were huge, wonderful tall madrones but the island was logged by a brick company that was present at one point in early century. Campers would play with some left over bricks on the beach. A few brick structures and cleared depressions were the clay pits.
Sidney Spit Tree
Had left over crab soup and broccoli for dinner with some
mac and cheese. Early to bed.
We raised anchor and went from Russel Island to Otter Bay on North Pender Island, another short trip of 5 nm. There where only a couple sial boats there and we where able to tuck up in to the head of the bay near the park dock where we had a very comfortable couple nights.
Otter Bay Anchorage
Water Dog At Otter Bay Anchorage
No crabbing done. Dinghied in to Gulf Islands National park and walked about in the park.
Roesland Park Map
Took a nice hike out to Roes Islet and then to and around Roe Lake so got good exercise. Old cottage resort, Roesland, is now part of the park and the park headquarters there too. Most of the resort cabins are closed due to poor condition. The main house is now a museum but is only open on weekends.
Park Office
Roes Islet
Roes Islet spot
Terra Roes Islet
To get to Roe Lake you have to walk 1/2 mile or so up Shingle Bay Road to the trail head over to the lake.
Roe Lake Map
Shingle Road
Roe Lake Hike
Roe Lake
Alex found a great blackberry patch and picked two pints and they were sweet and ripe.
Wild Blackberry Feast
By that evening we had three crabs only…. I made thai crab coconut corn soup. I found the recipe by surfing the net and looking at ingredients making sure I had them. Coincidentally the recipe was from Araxi restaurant in Whistler which we thought about going too when we were there as it was the highest rated (we aborted due to how expensive it twas). Soup was excellent!
August 3th
In AM went in to the Otter Bay Resort and Marina in AM to let dogs do their business. Nice place. Small café (breakfast burrtion was not hand made), nice grounds, got to dump recycling (and could have dumped garbage), nice viewing deck and firepits…very nice place with friendly staff, we liked it.
So very fun to have good friends visit…makes it so much
more special. We did kind of figure out that we need to not consume too much of
provisions we plan to use for the next couple months after visitors leave and
even short term things. We had to go to grocery next AM to get coffee creamer
as I had bought one quart at the Tru Value on Pender. We finished our half
gallon and almost finished the quart by the time those guys left so I should
have gotten two! We figure we should try to not consume a lot
of ships stores when people visit i.e. replace what is consumed mostly
(including paper towels and TP).
That morning we rode bikes up to grocery, got a breakfast
biscuit at local coffee house, got some turkey necks and double smoked bacon at
a butcher then stocked up on fresh berries and I got more dried beans. I
discovered canned beans take more space but also generate empty can garbage and
when we are more off the grid it may be hard to get rid of garbage.
We pumped out (Alex taught relatively naïve marina owners
how to use their new pump out) and then later departure around 2pm.
Anchored up behind Russell Island near the park dock along with 15 or so other boats which provides protection from the open water to the south.
Russell Island Anchorage
Russell Island Anchorage
Alex and Holly deployed crab traps and then we went in
and walked the island.
Holly and Alex Goin Crabbing
The island is quite small…entire hike less than two miles
which is a short loop starting at the dock.
Russell Island Hike
However we did find that this island is one of the 3-4 “Hawaiian” islands in the gulf islands. Several families came to work for the Hudson Bay trading company and were eventually given (or maybe bought) some islands: Portland, Russel and another 1 or 2. The Hawaiians are called Kanakas. On this island Mahoi family house is still standing and during the summer is staffed by descendants of Mary Mahoi and her husband George Fisher. We met Robert Turner, one of the Mahoi House volunteers, and descendant of the Mahois. Robert brings his small boat over to the dock and stays for a few nights at the house to provide tours. He showed us the inside of the house a bit, showed us photos of his mom, grandma and the original owner his great great grandmother. He welcomed us by bringing a bowl of water for the dogs..so nice!
Mahoi House
Mahoi House sign
Mahoi House
Robert Turner At Mahoi House
Otters were on the dock the next AM (and pooped on the
dock..yuk…had to make sure dogs did not eat).
We stayed another night so took the Dinghy into Fulford Harbor (on Salt Spring Island) to check it out. Fulford Harbor is at the head of the bay north of the anchorage.
Fulford Harbor
Fulford Dock Man And His Crow
There is a ferry terminal two shops, one grocery, an
organic bakery/coffee house and one restaurant.
Fulford Wardrobe Shop
Morningside Organic Bakery
Interior Morningside Organic Bakery
We got a really good freshly baked sausage roll at the Salt
Spring Mercantile Store (well stocked grocery) and then walked dogs past the
Mercantile Store on Morningside road with Alex merrily eating black berries
along the road.
Salt Spring Mercantile Store
Serendipity prevailed as near end of Morningside road I
saw a hiking sign for Reginald Hill Trail.
Reginald Hill Trail Hike Start
Reginald Hill Trail Hike
Reginald Hill Trail Hike Sign
We followed it and ended up on a challenging trail up to
the top of Reginald Hill. Amazing view, good challenging hike with some cardio.
Hike start easy but gets pretty steep at
end where there are some steep drop offs so dog’s kept on leash.
Reginald Hill Hike
Reginald Hill Hike
Reginald Hill Hike View
Twas a 2 mile dinghy ride and on the way back the winds
had kicked up down this long almost 2 mile harbor so it was choppy. Black bean, corn and vege salad with avocado
for dinner.
Left Portland island with destination Montague Harbor on Galiano Island.
Montague Harbour
Anchored. Dinghied in and walked to the Montague Harbor Marine Provincial park and walked around with dogs. ended up going on the trail around the small island at the north of harbour connected by a small spit to the main island.
Albert Welcome To Montague
Montague Harbor Hike
On the way back we walked through the small RV park that seems to be present at most of the provincial parks. Harbor water not too good so no dog swim. Boys deployed crab pots (eventually got 3 good ones). I took dogs back to boat around 5pm and fed them dinner.
Montague Harbor RV Park
We had dinner (all had various fish tacos) at the marina restaurant the Crane and Robin. Food was good and has nice views of the water from it’s location at the top of the dock where you moor your dinghy.
Montague Harbor Cafe
We then took famous Hummingbird Pub Bus to the pub. The ride is what its all about! Bus driver is a character and plays percussion symbols and cow bells while driving and hands out instruments (maracas, tambourine, bells, etc…) to the passengers. Most people sing along to good old song like Yellow Submarine, Magic bus, Ring of Fire etc… was a fun time. Had a beer and nachos at the pub. Pub food ok, service not good, did have blue grass band show up before we left. Ride back to marina just as fun then home to the boat. Another good day!
Cruised from South Pender to Portland Island, went around the long way over top of North Pender Island which was a mistake as added 15 miles and against the currents so was frustrating for Alex.
Portland Island
PortLand Island
Got to Portland and had exciting anchor. Alex had not finished dinghy harness for towing (lacked floats) and during exploration of anchor site in Princess cove one end came loos from cleat and we backed over dinghy line and off she floated ☹ A fellow boater rescued and returned to us and then we anchored furthest out from dock but very near two rock islands. Alex a little worried about proximity i.e. when we swing would we hit rocks awash (the next day we moved away 10 feet). Turned out to be nice being that far out as we watched seal and there pups nurse and the babes explore the kelp. Albert Was nice enough to dive in the cold water and remove the short piece of line from the Port prop.
PortLand Princess Bay Island Anchorage
Albert Removing Line From Prop
Portland Seals
Holly Watching Seals On Rocks
No whale sightings even though good whale bait (babies). Later PM hike on east shore of Portland, glanced at Royal cove anchorage on north side of island then cut back across the island and back to boat.
PortLand Island Trail Map
PortLand Hike
Portland Royal Cove
Crabbing still going on…. Not sure what was for dinner
Next day we liked it so much we stayed. Moved boat away from rocks 10 feet and then kayaked (Al and J went east side for a bit then we went west side for a bit). Late afternoon we took the hike on the west side of the island shore to royal cove and then back. Had five crabs by that evening and we made crab cakes again…not as good 2nd time, Alex decided needs to follow recipe better and also to cut onions smaller. Another great day on J’s birthday week!
Anacortes dentist, Drop off Vince and Pam’s truck, Albert and Jeanette pick up staying until 7/30 Monday.
Full day. Alex had 9:30am appointment in Anacortes. Jeanette and Al originally were going to meet us at Friday harbor but they found out the night before the Victoria clipper from Seattle to Friday was booked. So alternate plan created they were to take the shuttle from Seattle to Anacortes with as top in “La Conner” (stop was the shell station on the corner of HWY 20, 5 miles from marina). Alex went to dentist without me. Long visit to diagnose what was real problem and ultimately it was found wisdom tooth has gum recession with loss of enamel and that’s the pain. So yes Alex did have unnecessary root canal. Alex went to Waggoneers store and bought some maps then back to la Conner. We pumped out at La Conner. Shortly after Albert and Jeanette let us know they were 10 minutes from the Shell so we drove out to collect them. Then the boys decided to return the truck and ride back to La Conner. Jeanette and I walked up to town, did some stores, did the hill hike and checked out Pioneer Park.
That evening we had a one day pre B-day dinner at the thorn and thistle restaurant. Great night and dinner. I had the halibut again…. YUMWe toasted j’s b-day and decided we would celebrate all week long!July 22nd
Left La Conner late AM as I had suggested and Alex agreed that we would transit Deception pass. So we went south in the La Conner canal and through deception pass. Beautiful day and it was slack tide so no excitement.
Albert And Jeanette At Deception Pass
Deception Pass
Patty At Deception Pass
Destination was MacKaye Harbor with plans to hike to Iceberg point. This was executed… anchored, deployed crab traps, took dogs to iceberg point. Guys caught 3 crabs (two Red one Dungeness) and put traps back in overnight.
Mackaye Harbour
As you can see below Holly is not stressing out during anchoring that’s for sure!
Crab traps checked and collected: 2 more crabs so 5 ready for eating!
Alex Crab Catch
First night had boiled crabs with butter…pjs decided too much work cleaning crab, fortunately Jeanette likes to clean crab for future dinners ?
Had a nice cruise up San Juan Channel (I think) to Friday harbor where we anchored two nights. We got there fairly late and had a 3pm whale watch with Prince Rupert Whale Watch. We were overlapping with Wayne and Linda a day so had planned dinner but whale watch messed that up. Ended up doing whale watch (saw some whales yay!), had dinner at Hermosa’s then went to Tribute for a cocktail. Planned to provision the following day then take off.
Friday Harbor Whale Watching Trip
The next AM we went to hardware store and grocery store, walked a bit in town.
