Yet another short un-stressfull trip in the PNW to Jedediah Porvincial Park.
Very cool spot which was purchased from Al and Mary Palmer, owners of the island since 1949. Their house is still there along with the field and orchard on the inland side of the house. The estate of the late Daniel Culver committed $1.1 million to Jedediah’s preservation which the Palmers sold under market price. The Island also has some to old-growth stands of Douglas fir and arbutus along the trails which is way cool.
We went in and checked out Deep Bay Anchorage which looked to small for us and then the small cove directly underneath it so the south. The small cove, yellow orange dot below, had a couple boats in so we needed to find another spot to anchor. We then went back around north of the Island to Cod Fish Cove. Turned out to be a great choice.
Once we got to Cod Fish Cove we at first stern anchored up to the shore behind us but the wind from the North was kicking up making us worried the stern line might part so we decided to take it in. Learned a lesson on long stern lines in that if there is a single wrap in the line when you start that it may wrap itself around itself many many times as try to pull the loop back in to the boat. Had to go in to shore and unravel 300′ of line that had wrapped 40-50 turns upon itself, no fun.
At the north end of Cod Fish Cove is a very nice fairly steep rocky bank dinghy beach. No mud no fuss.
The island has some nice hiking trails to explore. As shown below the first day we took the trail from Cod Fish Bay, on the lower right, to the cross hatched area where the fields and orchard are. Al and Mary Palmers old house is down on the south east corner of the orchard and field to the right once you enter the field area.
On the path over from Cod Fish Cove you pass a drift wood beach.
Pretty cool these guy’s lived here for many years in a very pretty but isolated place. I can understand why you would want to do it!
At the dinghy landing in Cod Fish Cove you will notice a small trail going off to the left which will lead you to a steep but very nice trail up to Gibraltar Peak.
The next day we took the hike across the field to take a look at Long and Deep Bay’s toward the north side of the island.
Another short rip and nice weather for the trip from Comox Harbour To Tribune Bay anchorage on Hornby Island. Hornby Island has a plethora of hiking trails about a mile away to the west of the anchorage we did not get too. We ended up doing the hike to the east of the anchorage in Helliwell Provincial Park that was one of our all time favorites. We also did mot make it too the Hornby Island Co-Op Ring Side Market but heard that it is well worth a visit.
The anchorage is huge, we ended anchoring out a ways from the crowd at the head along the cliffs along the east side ringed with hidden houses along the High Salal Public Trail. This trail is very cool along the water and the early part runs between houses on private land that the owners have given permission for public access. Very cool attitude for these land owners, wish more places where like this!
We started the hike by beaching the dinghy at the head of the anchorage on the beach. We ended tying up to some rocks on the right side of beach since the beach has a very gradual slope so at low tide there is 40-50′ of beach your dinghy can get stranded on. We walked through the small Outdoor Education Center to the right of the beach to a trail going along Saint Johns Point Road and too a right on High Salal Drive.
About a half mile down High Salal Drive on the right is the first entrance to High Salal Public Trail which runs behind the houses on the cliff. A little further down is another entrance where the trail moves to in front of the houses directly above the bay.
The view along the trail is spectacular. The trail merges with Helliwell Park Trail marked by some park signs when returning back from Helliwell.
Once you get out towards Saint Johns Point it flattens out a bit with nice rocky beaches.
We got out of Gorge Marina around 10 am for our short rip to Campbell River Coast Marina. DestinationCambpell river. A largish town (35k, the biggest we have been to in weeks) and the “salmon capital of the world”. When leaving Gorge Harbour you have to take a hard turn to starboard to get around the spit extending southward from Marina Island. The channel around the spit at the end of Marina Island is pretty narrow but well marked. There is a nice anchorage along the east side of the spit we passed on our way by that was very crowded with anchored boats. We rounded the light house at the south end of Quadra Island ending up fighting a 2-3 knot current for the last mile in to the Campbell River Coast Marina. This is a smaller family owned marina run by a father and son, highly recommended. They even provided a free ride over to Elk Falls where we hiked back to the boat.
The first day we walked north of our marina to Robert V. Ostler Park and then checked out Fishermans Wharf Marina Pier Farmers market and had some lunch at the baba ganoush foodtruck. Some artists had booths and some veges/bread baked goods. We bought some strawberries. Walked back along pier street and found a thrift shop where we picked up some paniers and a plumbers wrench.
Once we checked out the boats at Fishermans Wharf we turned around and went north past Discovery Harbour Marina past an indian grave yard. The town has put interpretive signs a long the way. There is a cemetery/burial ground on the way out to the spit and many totem poles honored graves as well as grave stones. Some Indian named Henderson carved mosteverything in town (I think he is gone but children carry on). Hoping to go to Elk Falls provincial parktomorrow with the doggies.
A little further north we passed the Tyee Club which is in front of Tyee pool famous for it’s salmon. The members fish in skiff’s where you must row to catch a Tayee salmon to join the club.
Past the club is dick Murphy Park which dead ends at Campbell river.
The next day the owner of the marina was nice enough to drive us over to Elk Falls Trail Head where we started our hike back to the marina along the banks of the Cambell River on the millennium and canyon view trails.
The trail head is close to the Elk Falls suspension Bridge you walk over the wooden plank generator plant “penstock” pipes and suspension bridge to get to Elk Falls. The wooden plank water pipes are 20′ or so in diameter and built like wood water tanks with planks bound with metal rings. They where built 60 years ago and still in use. Shows you how well this construction works, kind of like wood boats surviving for so many years.
We then walked down river from the Falls along the river side trail to the John Hart Generation Station.
You cross the river from the south side to the north at the bridge above the generation plant. We followed the trail down the north side until we got to the logging road where you cross back over to the south side again on Detweiler Rd and back to the marina.
Since the smoke was still with us we decided to head to Gorge Harbour Marina, on the other side of Cortes Island, to be able to plug in and run AC’s to filter the air. This is a short two hour hop from Squirrel Cove. Nice marina with general store and close by hiking at Whale Town Commons. On the way in the harbour high up on the port side are some red petroglyphs shown below.
Gorge Harbour turned out to be a great stop where we ended up staying three nights at the marina. The marina has a long dock out front that can handle large boats, even up too 100′ or so, and room inside for smaller ones. The grounds are very nicely kept with a well stocked general store with LP gas available. The grounds also include a nice RV park that seems very popular with folks taking the ferry over to Cortes island.
If you walk out the entrance road to the marina and take a left on Whale Town road past the fire House sign you will find Whale Town Commons Trail head on the right. This is a real nice hike with a few old growth trees still standing.
The commons hike has many examples of nurser tree stumps where new trees use old logged tree stumps as a base to grow on.
The next day we walked back to the commons and walked through it to the back of the park and took a left on Jocelyn road. On Jocelyn road we passed some cool artsy kind of houses until the road petered out and we found a small path to the left out too Carrington Bay road. Carrington Bay takes you back too Whale Town road where a small art galley is located before you get to Whale Town proper. Whale Town has a small dock/marina and the smallest post office I have ever seen. There is also a small pottery there at the house next too the docks where we talked to the owner about Whale Town and bought two coffee cups.
Very short trip over to Squirrel Cove Anchorage on Cortes Island where we are hoping that the smoke from BC forest fires may not be as bad. There are some nice trails in the Von Donop Provincial Park from the Anchorage.
On the way in you pass by the small town Squirrel Cove on your left as you approach the anchorage at the head of the harbour. Once we entered the anchorage we decided to anchor out in the first main harbour since it was a bit crowded further in. Note the Trail Start below for the Von Donop Trail, it was a bit hard to find from the water.
Once we anchored we took the dinghy in to Squirrel Cove public dock. The small town has a restaurant and well stocked general store. Down stairs is a HW Store/chandlery that had a surprising variety of stuff available. We sat outside at the restaurant and had fish tacos before heading back to the boat.
The next day it took a bit of searching in the dinghy but we finally found the trail head for the Von Donop Trail which is marked with a white bucket filled with rocks.
The trail has been well marked by previous visitors with various items you find on the trees as you proceed.
If you proceed to the head of the trail at the road you will find the small Salmon Facility. At this point you can walk in to town if you like.
On the way we passed by the Van Donop Anchorage which is accessed through the Ha’thayim (Von Donop) Marine Provincial Park on the north side of Cortez Island. Was much less crowded there with only two boats present that seemed to be there long term.
Our second stop in Desolution Sound Marine Provencial Park is Tenedos Bay where there is a hike to freshwater Unwin Lake where many people swim in the warm water of the lake. Tenedos Bay was the start of our problem’s with smoke from the BC fires that plagued our trip for the next 3-4 weeks. This is when we started looking at the BC Smoke Forecast web page with 24 simulations of smoke coverage so that we could start planning our next location to move around the smoke.
We ended up anchoring out along the north east side of the bay in about 40 ft of water. Our first try at anchoring when backing down we could could feel our chain twitching as our Rocna 110 anchor dragged on rock, on the second try a little further north we did get a good set.
The trail starts at the dinghy landing and we took a trail offshoot to the left of the main trail to let the dog’s run in the stream coming down from the lake.
Once at the lake we took a short hike on a trail to the right side of the lake but it petered out pretty quickly and got swampy so we ended up turning back after a few hundred yards.
Grace Harbour is our first stop in the BC Desolution Sound Provencial Marine Park system. The park has three main anchorages: Prideaux Haven, Tenedo’s Bay and Grace Harbour. We plan to visit Grace and Tenedo’s.
This park has long been a boater’s favorite in the Malaspina Inlet and Homfray Channel area. The warm waters of the park make for great swimming and their are nice hiking trails at the anchorages.
We headed north from Powell River and then took a right at the entrance to Okeover Arm Inlet to Malaspina Inlet where Grace Harbour anchorage is located.
We went to the north east side at the head of Grace Harbour where we anchored in 30′ or so in a nice mud bottom.
On the west side of anchorage is a nice dinghy landing spot with a trail to Black Lake.
It is very evident from all the old equipment found all over these areas that logging was everywhere and old growth forest are just left in small patches here and there.
Big day… off to Chatterbox falls in Princess Louisa inlet. Alex thought we might be departing later to catch the Malibu rapids at entrance to the inlet at slack…. then he realized we had to leave NOW ?…so we got going quickly and cruised up Agammemnon Channel and in to Jervis Inlet. Was worried the ebbing tidal current, shown ebbing at 13:45 PDT at Malibu Rapids diagram below, would slow us down and we would miss our slack window. Did not see anything over a knot or so of current on the trip up so all good. Malibu Rapids at Princess Louisa Inlet can have up to 10 knots currents with a narrow dog leg in the middle so nothing to trifle with. Even with making close to slack we had 2-3 knots flood going in.
Gloomy cloudy day and ended up raining too. At first a bit disappointed about rain but later realized this created many waterfalls in the fjord. Easy cruise and got to the rapids a bit before slack with incoming 2-3 knott current. Announced our transit and through we went. Entrance dog legs to the right and a bit of an S curve but since we had timed it well not a problem. A 110 foot boat Alliance went through before us. We did not see it but wondered about navigating a long boat like that through the inlet.
Right near the entrance to Princess Louisa Inlet is a Christian kids camp. It
must be for rich kids as what a place! Beautiful grounds, swim area, ski boats,
SUPS, volleyball etc…. looked very swanky.
Arrived at the falls..it rained much of the way up the inlet but this created the waterfalls. The dock was full (we are too big for dock anyway) and there were several boats anchored to the west of the falls. I urged Alex to squeeze in right in front of the falls which he did YAY!! They guys went to stern tie us but it would have been on east side of falls and ranger came out to say not a good idea to tie there but she said we likely did not need to stern tide due to the current from the falls. So no stern tie but right in front of falls four our 3 day stay.
We all checked out the falls and then settle in for evening. We had some left over dungenous crab so I made crab coconut soup. I added Ramen noodles at the end and it complemented it well.
Next day we deployed SUPS and kayaks and all did a bit of both. Took Dinghy to MacDonald island and took a short hike on Ming’s Loop, nice walk through the woods to the inlet. Got back and did some more SUPing and hanging.
Unfortunately a yacht we had seen at John Henry “Shiatz” showed up and anchored next to us. They had these motorized self-propelled wake boards which were an annoyance. Alex asked that they keep them away but they still ruined the serenity. Unfortunately the ranger was gone for the time they were there so they were not shut down (one would think they would not be allowed). After the fact we should have told them of 4 mph speed limit and maybe the would have respected that. Terrible behavior!
The next AM Gary and Marcia were to fly out around 2pm. We went to falls in AM, those guys took a kayak and then their float plane arrived. When we were kayaking kept getting the feeling were being watched for some reason hmmmmm……Later in the day the float plane arrived at the park dock and Gary and Marsha flew off into the mist…
That afternoon we struck out on the trail to the
trapper’s cabin (Which continues up to the top where apparently there are
amazing views). Lots of warnings at beginning of how strenuous and unmaintained
the trail is. We heard various reports…45 minute walk 1.5 hour walk? Anyhow off
we went and it was very technical…lots of rocks and steep areas where one had
to pull on roots etc…. We got about ½ hour and then Terra balked…she had
enough…just too much for her with the steep inclines. So we turned around…I
think youngster Holly could have made it and likely I could have too but it was
a bit more than I liked too… maybe next time.
So the entire time we were there it seems hazy. We
attributed it to humidity as it had rained but even on the last day when “sun”
was out it was hazy. Turns out it was the beginning of several day so bad SMOKE
from BC and Washington fires.
We would have stayed another day but the idiots on Shiatz continued to run
their motorized wake boards so we left and headed north to Powell river where
we could provision and refill water.
We raised anchor and went from Russel Island to Otter Bay on North Pender Island, another short trip of 5 nm. There where only a couple sial boats there and we where able to tuck up in to the head of the bay near the park dock where we had a very comfortable couple nights.
No crabbing done. Dinghied in to Gulf Islands National park and walked about in the park.
Took a nice hike out to Roes Islet and then to and around Roe Lake so got good exercise. Old cottage resort, Roesland, is now part of the park and the park headquarters there too. Most of the resort cabins are closed due to poor condition. The main house is now a museum but is only open on weekends.
To get to Roe Lake you have to walk 1/2 mile or so up Shingle Bay Road to the trail head over to the lake.
Alex found a great blackberry patch and picked two pints and they were sweet and ripe.
By that evening we had three crabs only…. I made thai crab coconut corn soup. I found the recipe by surfing the net and looking at ingredients making sure I had them. Coincidentally the recipe was from Araxi restaurant in Whistler which we thought about going too when we were there as it was the highest rated (we aborted due to how expensive it twas). Soup was excellent!
August 3th
In AM went in to the Otter Bay Resort and Marina in AM to let dogs do their business. Nice place. Small café (breakfast burrtion was not hand made), nice grounds, got to dump recycling (and could have dumped garbage), nice viewing deck and firepits…very nice place with friendly staff, we liked it.
Cruised from South Pender to Portland Island, went around the long way over top of North Pender Island which was a mistake as added 15 miles and against the currents so was frustrating for Alex.
Got to Portland and had exciting anchor. Alex had not finished dinghy harness for towing (lacked floats) and during exploration of anchor site in Princess cove one end came loos from cleat and we backed over dinghy line and off she floated ☹ A fellow boater rescued and returned to us and then we anchored furthest out from dock but very near two rock islands. Alex a little worried about proximity i.e. when we swing would we hit rocks awash (the next day we moved away 10 feet). Turned out to be nice being that far out as we watched seal and there pups nurse and the babes explore the kelp. Albert Was nice enough to dive in the cold water and remove the short piece of line from the Port prop.
No whale sightings even though good whale bait (babies). Later PM hike on east shore of Portland, glanced at Royal cove anchorage on north side of island then cut back across the island and back to boat.
Crabbing still going on…. Not sure what was for dinner
Next day we liked it so much we stayed. Moved boat away from rocks 10 feet and then kayaked (Al and J went east side for a bit then we went west side for a bit). Late afternoon we took the hike on the west side of the island shore to royal cove and then back. Had five crabs by that evening and we made crab cakes again…not as good 2nd time, Alex decided needs to follow recipe better and also to cut onions smaller. Another great day on J’s birthday week!