We had a short quiet cruise from Poulsbo to Langley via Agate Pass. I saw some birds in the distance at the most southern tip of Whidbey. Likely going after fish so I watched with the binoculars. I saw a few killer whale dorsals. Far in the distance but cool.
We pulled in for starboard tie on end of dock on inside of break water where Duncan came out to help with lines. You will be very lucky if Duncan is there when you come, very nice help full and can provide all the info you need about Langley etc. Very nice clean wide docks where we set our chairs out to sit to watch water at cocktail hour. Also best water pressure we have ever seen at any marina, great place to hose off boat.
Langley is a small town with some restaurants, good views of the water and galleries. Not much hiking other than beach walking and around town. We got there mid afternoon and just checked out town. In the middle of town are the stairs down to the beach where we took a left at the bottom and walked down tide line for 1/2 mile or so.
Had dinner out which was good. Decided to stay another day. In AM we took the dogs on a nice beach walk and then around town. Nice quaint place.
They have a bunch of very tame feral rabbits roaming the town. The dogs were very interested in the rabbits, thinking of them as rabbit poo pez dispensers and play toys. Did some training on leave it with both dogs ?
Point Defiance is within boundaries of Ruston (a suburb of Tacoma I think)
Twas a short trip from gig harbor to Point Defiance dock. We wanted to get there early to secure space and we did. For vessels over 30 feet 20 dollars per night ($5 for electric but only one pedastel which we did not use). The dock is right next to ferry landing so we had lots of ferry watching. At low tides (since around this date the low tides were super extreme we were on the ground).
The city original downtown had only a couple businesses. They are developing a waterfront up the small man made harbor with lots of condos being built and a soon to be open bicycle bridge that connects it to the park area. I saw the green space on google maps, researched and decided it might be worth a park. I feel it was!
The destination here is wonderful Point Defiance park with old growth forest, hiking paths, a zoo and aquarium, gardens and a 5 mile drive which can be biked. Also since a point in the sound there is a nice beach you can walk too along the water just North of the marina. We walked the beach in the AM with dogs so they got good running and swimming in.
Then in PM we rode the bikes to the small town center and then on the five mile road. This road is closed to 10am on weekdays and til 1pm on weekends for bikers and walkers. We saw some raccoons begging alongside of the road and good views of Colvi channel, and the narrows bridge (original suspension bridge years ago collapsed due to bad engineering and high winds).
The park also has a rose garden, herb garden, rhodendendron garden and off leash dog park.
Also a recreated fort, Fort Nisqually (two building were donated and moved from original site further down the sound). At this Fort they do camps, period events and its also rentable space. Had burgers for dinner.
Short 5 mile cruise across the sound to Seattle bell Harbor. Small harbor with TALL barrier walls so did not get much of a view. We got there early due to short cruise.
Walked northward along bay through sculpture parks and waterfront parks (Myrtle Edwards and Centennial) with dogs. They got to swim and played ball.
Also went to Pikes place market to check it out. Wanted to try Pike’s Place Chowder but too long of a line. Ended up at Kells Irish Restaurant and Bar: had a Sausage roll and Lamb wrap and I tried the clam chowder and it was AWESOME chowder. It was good food, Alex had a beer.
Richard called us when we arrived as was trying to hook us up with their friends Steve and Maureen (mo). They had been wine tasting but we did finally hook up around 6pm or so. They just stopped by for a few minutes. Only Steve came as Mo was busy but he brought his niece and her husband and two other young man in the family. We chatted a bit and gave tour of the boat.
The following day we took dogs for a walk past aquarium to another waterfront park but it was all cement…. Saw miners landing where the big ferris wheel is… all too busy and city like for us.
Then we had and approximately 9 mile there and back again bike ride to a place on the east side of Lake Union called Fisheries supply.
Alex had ordered some line (floating for docking and regular to make lines). It was a nice ride about town, pretty good bike trails. That afternoon Alex napped and I went back to pikes place to explore. Found the fish throwers and gum wall. Almost got a belt but decided not too. Chowder place still long lines so I got some fresh donuts and a soft vege taco. I got my taco from the Mexican grocery on the main drag. A vendor that sold Slex some pepper jelly said to try the place across the street so I thought maybe this was it… However I did not catch the name and I picked the wrong place me thinks Eventually I wandered by it inside a building with multiple shops and dining places and it was called Los Agaves….will try next time for street tacos… they had our fave al pastor.
Sat up top for cocktails the 2nd evening and it was nice. Got a good view of Mt Rainer
Bainbridge Island/Eagle Harbor Public Dock is brand new and very nice with all new pilings etc.
Wayne and Linda on Tribute were to meet us there. They were traveling northward from Gig Harbor. They arrived a bit before us and stayed at Queen City Yacht Club outstation.
We got a spot at the public dock but then a big 100 foot boat came and said it was reserved. We said you can ‘t reserve its first come first serve but low and behold there were several cones that said reserved (oops).
Fortunately, right when we were going to move the boat at the other end of the long dock we were on left and the charter tied up there. They were having a party for someone named Brandt that night so later that day partiers arrived and they went out for a cruise. The Bainbridge island public dock is newly renovated, economical and very nice! 50 cents a foot with power. Had 50 amp too. We arrived Thursday and boaters are only supposed to be on the dock 48 hours. The harbormistress who we had communicated with about getting some mail said we could stay Saturday night (night number 3) since weather was not to be that nice ie rain. Ultimately, we stayed Thursday through Monday AM as she permitted us to stay one more night via text.
We had several good walks in Bainbridge island, dog swim in front of yacht club and a bike ride to the Grand Forest park east. On our long walk with dogs we started on waterfront board walk, followed the waterfront trail signs which snaked us through neighborhoods.
We had short detour into the Moritani preserve which was nice green space. Played ball with dogs there. They had some artifacts from previous Japanese owners. Seems Japanees settled on this and Vashon Island to grow strawberries. Some of these poor folks had lands confiscated and were put into internment camps… The waterfront walk also took us to Strawberry Park which is not very developed, a short waterfront picnic tables, and parking.
Nice down town with shops and good high-end grocery called Town and Country market (like a whole foods).
Went out every night with buddies Wayne and Linda. Went to Docs Marina Grill first night; good fish tacos. This restaurant must be a chain as we had eaten at Docs marina grill in Port Hudson. Anyhow we had a 2nd meal at Docs when we met their friends the Norman and Lisa. I had the Crab Risotto which was awesome.
Had a short walk with Linda on the trails/roads to the right of the marina the next morning on the public paths you seem to stumble upon all over town.
Lisa was a friend of Linda’s from a very young age as they were in boarding school for a year in France. These guys had been on Bainbridge island for nearly 40 years so they know some of the history. Norm had an interesting past. He helped develop the docks in Bainbridge and also Neah bay.
He told a story of a periscope in the bathroom of the Doc Marina Grill building. It was there! Supposedly the wives lived across the bay. The fisherman would come in and off load but then would go to the bar. The periscope was installed so the fisherman could look for and/or at any dinghy’s coming their way which might be a wife looking for the hubby! Nice to meet them.
We also ate one night at Mexican place Isla Bonita across from town and The Country Market food store. Alex had the SEAFOOD MOLCAJETE Mexican Molcajete (Mexican stew) made with shrimp, scallops, and whitefish. It was fantastic…..(From Alex).
Our last night we ate at the Harbour Public House. This is a small but nice pub with good brewery food. Not too loud on a Sunday night.
Got out of Port Townsend at around 0900 and headed south towards the Port Townsend canal. Along the way we crossed a Navy base at Walan Point with a submarine docked inside. We gave it a good wide distance as a navy boat with sub-machine gun on front tracked us to make sure we did not turn towards sub with nefarious intentions.
The Port Townsend Canal is a short fairly narrow pass which is a short cut heading south towards Seattle from Port Townsend. We passed at slack tide and had not trouble at all with deep water the whole way.
Stopped for one night at Port Ludlow.
This is a one resort town. Nice large inn with maybe/probably good restaurant (well reviewed). Very dog friendly. Many trails in surrounding cookie cutter residential neighborhoods, to a small town center with gas station, grocery, bank, cpa etc… a tiny town in itself. There is a golf course on other side of bay and an RV park which seem to often be near marinas. I found a trail on line to a waterfall. Its small but it was a cool walk, good info on area, lumber industry etc.
On the way back next to the falls we walked through the Port Ludlow RV park which was small but had nice wooded sites.
Port Townsend is a very nice town to visit with nice walks down the beach to the park on the north side, nice shopping in town and the start of the Olympic Discovery Trail along the bay south of town for bike rides. Beach walk is MUCH longer at LOW tide and it was not too muddy. Nice.
Got out of John Wayne Marina a little late at 1100 to catch the incoming tide and save some fuel. Ran at a little under 1600 RPM and 5 GPH at 9-10 knots so had a quick fuel efficient trip.
Day was over cast as you can see from looking in too Discovery Bay as we passed by it on our starboard side pilot house door.
We soon rounded the Point Wilson Light House and arrived at the narrow entrance to the Port Hudson Marina. The entrance makes a short dog leg to the right so a good long toot on the horn to warn some one coming the other way.
The marina is directly to the North of the water front down town section with many nice shops and places to eat. Our slip was on the far side across from town next to the Port Hudson RV park. The RV park had some nice spaces along the water but are pretty packed in due to the small space.
Later in the day we walked up the dock and across the RV park and took a left at the water for a walk to Fort Worden State Park along the edge of the beach at low tide. Dogs got a swim in along the way.
Fort Worden Park Walk
Just a quarter mile down the beach we ran in a set of stairs up the bluff to a very nice Chetzemoka Park. The park is very nicely done with views of the water and lush greenery and grass.
On the way back we stopped at Doc’s directly behind the boat where I had the Mussel’s in Curry Sauce appetizer and Patty had clam chowder. The mussels are highly recommended.
On Monday we walked south along the road above the waterfront to Up Town and viewed many old Victorian houses on our way to the court house to check on details on boat rules in Washington State for taxes.
We then got some sandwiches from Aldrichs Market in Up Town to eat at the park across the street.
After looking for at least 10 years Patty found the right table at the right price for our foyer.
Since it started raining Sunday we ended up staying at John wayne Marina for three nights from Friday to Sunday.
We got out of Makah Marina at 1100 hours to catch the incoming current to Sequim Bay. Patty read some good stuff about John Wayne Marina which is run by Port Angeles which is a large commercial port just West of John Wayne. John Wayne donated the land back in the 60’s to Port Angeles with the requirement that they build a public marina at the site.
On the charts saw something new where you have the normal traffic separation zones in the middle for ships to pass port to port, like cars in the US. On the outside of the normal lanes on the US side you see traffic indicated for starboard to starboard passing zones as you can see in the photo below with the small arrows in the lower left below the normal traffic separation zones for ships. The NOAA chart notes barge traffic and fishing vessels pass starboard to starboard in the area. I followed this and all the small vessels complied to this on past Port Angeles.
We are used to pretty heavy large ship traffic in San Francisco Bay but the shipping channel in the Strait Of Juan de Fuca was very heavy with 300’ or larger ship coming one after the other in the main shipping channel as shown on AIS on our port stern quarter below.
We then had one ship cross our stern as he crossed us as he went in to Port Angeles then another cross our stern as they exited Port Angeles, exciting stuff.
Rules of the road or Chicken 😕
The entrance to Sequim Bay takes a pretty short dog leg to the starboard side with the natural sand spit to port protecting the bay as you go in then to port but is is easy and wide.
We ended up deciding to stay on the outside of the transient dock so we could have a view outside the marina break water.
Forecast was for light winds but even with light NW winds we got a little wind wave action from the entrance from NE.
The marina has very nice green manicured lawns on the 22 acres so is very pleasant and dog friendly with trash cans and doggie bags at the top of the ramp.
At high tide good pebble dog beach. At low tide mud and likely one could dig in the mud for clams and such. A stream empties right at the junction of marina and beach of RV park.
The next day Saturday we took a short walk past the John wayne RV park at the south end of the marina and up to a short cut across the back of RV park and up along the south side of Sequim Bay along Olympic Discovery Trail. The trail runs along the shore for many miles on the Olympic Peninsula along the shore and is a great hiking and bike trail. The RV park had small spaces parking lot stile but some did have nice view of bay from across road.
Sunday things cleared up rains wise and we went back up too Olympic Discovery Trail but this time took a right to head to the City of Sequim to see what is there.
Not much at downtown Sequim to look at so just passed through and turned around to go back over trail.
NW wind 10 to 15 kt with gusts to 20 kt. Wind waves NW 3 ft at 5 seconds. W swell 4 ft at 11 seconds. Patchy drizzle in the morning.
This is our next to last leg with a long 110 nm leg from Westport to Neah Bay at the mouth of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Got out of Garibaldi Marina at 0600 on our way too South Port Marina. Only stayed at Garibaldi one night since we have a good weather window and not much to do at Garibaldi. Was a very nice calm day which turned out to be better than the NOAA forecast. Feeling lucky with all the good weather we have had for all our legs on the trip so far. We ended up staying until Thursday at Westport waiting for a good weather window.
We once again came in on the ebb tide at 13:30 so we the swells coming over Westport bar got bunched up and had a fun ride down the back of the waves.
When you enter marina you go down past the fish plant dock on the port side where the guest dock is located, we took a starboard side tie on float-6.
Westport has a large charter fishing fleet on the side we docked at on the North side and also a large fishing fleet mostly on the other south side of the marina.
If you walk to the outside jetty, around the North side of the marina to the entrance the Fisherman’s Boardwalk allows you to view Grays Harbor and the fishing fleet on the North side.
We then took a quick outside tour of the Westport Maritime Museum across form the marina where the dogs enjoyed the nice watered green lawn. They have a large glass display case so you view exhibits from along the lawn.
On Monday had breakfast at Blue Buoy (good basic breakfast stuff) right across from marina. We then took a hike over to the viewing tower and then down the paved trail along the South jetty through West Haven State Park to the beach for a dog romp.
Left very early in morning, lots of fishing boats going out to dodge but calm seas. Had lovely cruise up the coast with flat water
Patty was disappointed by how much clear cutting is done. No one likely sees it except the few cruising up the coast. Still it was a great cruising day with sun shining, good weather and nice coastline.
Entering Garibaldi (harbor is about 2miles inside Tillamook bay we found that since Memorial Day Week the transient dock we planned to stay at was full of small fishing boats. We ended up tying up at the only dock free and once we walked up found out it was the local fish market dock and they were happy to let us stay for $30, good news since we where not sure what we where going to do. Had a short one night stay. We checked out a Myrtlewood factory, walked the dogs, had dinner at the towns top rated cafe (wonderful crab melts) and then early to bed for the early wake up needed for next jump up the coast to Westport (in Gray’s harbor Washington).
Tides are big up here, ie 9 foot in Tillamook. Currents are also big. We arrived at Tillamook at wrong time with outgoing time (can make swells big over the bar and also slow you down). Such a strong tide there were visible rapids.
Our planned route in OpenCpn is in blue, our actual track of the voyage is in fusia.
NOAA Marine Zone Forecast PZZ255 Marine Zone Forecast
N wind 5 to 10 kt, rising to 10 to 15 kt in the afternoon. Wind waves N 2 ft at 4 seconds. W swell 6 ft at 11 seconds. Secondary swell S 3 ft at 16 seconds. Patchy drizzle in the morning.
Nice short trip was nice after the last few longer ones.
We really enjoyed Newport since there are trails out the beaches on each side of the jetty and also some town walking with shops for Patty.
We almost got stuck in Florence as mentioned in the last blog since the Siuslaw Bar closes almost every day when the current starts going out and the swell steepens and start breaking in the entrance. We had a 0700 Florence bridge opening but when we heard S/V Tango on channel 22 getting escorted out we got going and mad it out the bar for An uneventfull short trip to Newport where we arrived at 0100. We ended up staying two nights where for the first day we hiked out to the beach on the south side of jetty and on the next day hiked over the US 101 bridge to Newport on the North side of river. The Port Of Newport Marina is the first recreational boaters marina we have seen since we left san Francisco. The working boats stay across the river to the North at Newport.
It was opening day for Halibut and the cleaning tables where packed with people cleaning fish.
For the hike out to the beach you start on the trail under the south side of the bridge and proceed down the south jetty.
You then can cut over to the left on to the trails through the dunes to get off the road as we did if you like.
Our first evening we checked out the Rogue Brewery. There are also Rogue spirits. This place is a true farm to table organization as they have Rogue farms which grow grains, hops and flavoring veges (ie cucumber gin) and then incorporate into the beer or spirits. Dinner was ok (not great food…go for the beer).
The next morning we took a short walk on the Estuary Trail across from marina to the east and then on over to South Beach for lunch of oysters and Halibut. Freshest fish we found in Newport.
A little later in the day we walked over the US 101 Bridge to Newport proper. A bit of a tourist town but is was nice to see a number of fish processing plants along the shoreline along the main drag.
we then took a short walk under the north end of the bridge towards the beach and then turned back to the right up the trial towards the bridge for trip back.