2019 Pacific Northwest Trip BC And SE Alaska

Dent Island Lodge To Brent Wood Bay

September 7^th to September 14 th Dent Island Lodge, Teakerne Arm to Prideuax Haven, Texada Boating Club and Vancouver Quayside Marina

This is the last leg in our 2019 trip to Alaska where we end up at Brent Wood Bay to store the boat for the winter.

September 7^th Dent Island to Teakerne arm

Left around 10:30am. Needed to do Gilliard pass and Yaculta rapids: moderate current…we got pushed around a bit, stabilizers seemed to help.

Yaculta Rapids

Cloudy day. Saw some white sided dolphins in distance with a whale watch boat following. We went down lewis channel instead of Waddington or Homfrey: I think the latter two may be beautiful cruises due to high mountains. We were thinking prideaux haven but poked into teakerne arm and not crowded so decided to stay over night.

Last year we got smoked out so we decided to stay: partly sunny, anchored right in front of waterfall with stern tie. Did not loop stern tie since such easy access ? Well when we tied it was high tide and when tide went down next am alex had to climb to get so Teaching moment: loop stern tie. Had chill night. Alex deployed Prawn trap: alex caught about 25 prawns which he ate later with hamburgers for dinner.

September 8^th Teakerne Arm to Prideuax Haven

Left mid morning, not a far cruise needed. During cruise south calvin called to let me know mom had passed.

Cloudy with some rain. Arrived and checked out Melanie cove which was crowded so we anchored out in main Prideaux haven bay where there were no other boats.

Took a hike to a lake view (alternative is long walk to unwin lake) with dogs which was nice.

Then back to boat and a few others joined us (2 krogens’ anchored nearby Pacific Sapphire and Frances Stroughten) in the bay.

Also, Mom sent a rainbow …. I took as a sign she is at peace. Sad day but also good she was no longer suffering/waiting to die.

September 9^th Day two Prideaux

In am we debated staying or going. Picked up prawn trap and nada, alex felt not enough bait. Sun started to peak out and clouds clearing revealing very nice view. We decided to stay (we had cell service as well …spotty but usable at times). Redeployed prawn trap, kayaked to Laura cove and around islands and then walked dogs from Head of Melanie Cove to Laura Cove. Nice walk …lots of log jumping and root dodging.

Rough Going Head of Melanie Cove to Laura Cove

September 10^th Prideaux haven to Texada boating club

Left late as we had to pick up prawn trap (a blank again), pick up kayaks and dinghy! 11:30 departure! Beautiful sunny day with glass like ocean. Decided to skip Lund and Powell river and landed at Texada Boating club (cheap at 75 or 85 cents a foot canadian). Nice dock, no power, good cell, pay for garbage. Nice view of the bay and across malapsina strait to powell river (at night lights were cool).

Walked about town, mailed a check writing application to VG and let dogs and us stretch legs. Saw Mary Mary café and a local potter as well as the inn…alas did not spend money at these places but did get a few groceries/vegies at the well stocked Texada Market. Chill night with plan to get up EARLY next day due to high wind forcast and tide/current.

September 11^th Texada boating club to Vancouver Quayside Marina

Had a pretty strong wind forecast for the North Side of the Georgia Strait which we need to cross along the North side to get from Texada Island to Vancouver.

Alarm rang at 5:30 am but we ignored ? Set sail around 7:30 am. Mild chop and wind. Wind really picked up 12-2 ish 20 knots when forecast was 15 knots and we had head on seas: steep wind waves with short periods when going by Buccaneer bay and after emerging from the little strait inside the islands at the south end of Texada there: VERY rough and unpleasant for an hour or two. Had to wedge one cabinets, stove crumb tray and sliding rack inside stove to prevent opening up due to pitching. Dogs not happy.
Alex mantra only leave with questionable weather if forecast says its gonna get better got ignored this time…. Wind was to go down to 5 knots at 12pm with original forecast…12pm update said nasty til 2pm UGH. We thought about turning around but pushed through and it did slowly get better and was fine by the time we were going by Keats and Bowen Island (our bail out points if too nasty). It was not bad so we kept on and arrived at Quayside marina around 4pm. Ran into Pacific Sapphire and Frances Stroughten Krogen’s again, shared birth with Pacific Sapphire. They had cruised from Jedediah Marine park on Lasquetti island and said it was a rough and long day. They had just arrived too.

Funky Looking Building Vancouver False Creek

We rinsed boat, walked dogs (discovering nearby dog park YAY) and then walked to dinner. Tried to go to “rodney’s which Hugh and Fionna on Choices had recommended but too long of wait. We ended up at the flying pig and both had good pasta dishes. Plan for two nights here. Expensive at 2.70 a foot plus electric but oh well. Has garbage dump, not good wi fi. Good cell.

False Creek has many taxi boats which for a small fee you can ride to any location on the water along False Creek. The next day we took a water taxi over to Granville Island that has great shops and food markets to have lunch.

We then walked over to the outdoor Art Market at the Allee Railspur Alley.

That night we had dinner at Rodney’s Oyster House and sat at the bar, had a great time with the staff since we where early and not to busy yet. They treat Oyster’s here as a real delicacy taking great care to shuck each one, clean and present it as a work of art. Also they grate fresh horse radish for each one!

We then had a fairly long cruise to Anacortes for a week to attend the Krogen rendevous then headed over to Van Isle Marina near Brentwood Bay to put Water Dog up for the winter.

Shearwater to Dent Island Lodge

August 28^th To September 6^th travel was from Shearwater to Pruth Bay, Port Hardy, Alert Bay, Lagoon Cove, Blind Channel and finally Dent Island Resort.

August 28^th Shearwater to Pruth Bay

Pruth Bay at the Hakai Institute was our first stop after Shear Water. This place turned out to be one of our favorites since there are nice hiking trails and wonderful deserted beaches for us and the dogs.

Shortly after we left Shearwater sun came out. Nice to see some blue sky and views. Nice cruise with good current. Saw a whale breach a few times from miles away! Since nice went to Pruth bay and came in from the north through Hakaii passage then turning between Ratter and Hecate island. Saw a bunch of fishermen at east end of Hakaii passage and then saw two fishing lodges tucked in on Hecate island.

Anchored in bay closer this time so had access to the free internet on all devices. Crowded LOL we have found the cruisers. By the time we went to bed at least a dozen boats in the bay. Dogs and us had nice sunny beach walk on west and north beach. YAY!

August 29^th Pruth bay to Port Hardy, crossing Queen Charlotte sound

Early start. Alarm 5:15am. Took dogs in, got dinghy up and anchor up and underway by 6:15 AM ( a record) Foggy for first part of trip after go out of Kwakshua channel (the east entrance to pruth bay). Some pacific white sided dolphins rode the bow in the channel. Thick fog as we continued south down Fithugh annel but started to clear around 8:30am with some sun shining through. Fog most of the trip though, mild 3 foot swells. Did not see landmarks to east has traveled. After passing cape caution caught a bit of current for awhile then seemed like we were against it as we passed main opening of queen charlotte strait. Arrived in Port Hardy. Found out we could not tie on sea gate docs (50 foot max). ended up in Fisherman’s wharf. Tight and at low tide even tighter so we may have to wait until tide up a bit until we leave. Fisherman’s wharf cheap, no power as only 20 AMP and tight. But cheap. In AM walked eastward and found the beginning of trail system that goes to estuary of river and fish hatchery.

August 30^th and 31st Port Hardy To Alert Bay

Left Port Hardy mid morning after tide had come up a bit. Headed out in some fog with tide for a bit so good speed. Past Port Hardy and landed around 2pm at Alert Bay harbor.

Had a walk on the trail system and then went out for dinner at the hotel restaurant. It had mixed reviews, some people raved about the Indian food (Indian family runs it) but it was a bust. We guessed he entire dinner was microwaved from Costco…oh well. Planned for two nights

Next day slept in, woke up and was raining a bit. Walked southward down island around by airport then back on trail system to east trail and main trail back to town. Alex napped and then we went to the Umista cultural center. Walked past five awakwas (not sure what they are) the described the five clans of the Namgis (Kwak’wala) first nations Indians. Cool totems about town and on the awakwas.

The cultural center talked a lot about a guy who wrote a book about this tribe in the 1790s and then a bunch of artifacts and masks that were confiscated from illegal potlatch in early 1900s. They have searched all around world in museums and private collections to retrieve blankets, cedar neck rings, masks, rattles etc. What we have not seen at other places were transformation masks. Really cool that many of the masks had articulations and joints with strings that would move or open the mask exposing another face. Pretty cool

September 1^st Alert bay to Lagoon Cove Marina

Plan to catch tide and leave around 11:30 am. Short cruise to Lagoon Bay. First bit of cruise across Johnstone Strait was very foggy…had to use radar. About the time we entered knight inlet the fog cleared and we had sun with some clouds and nice views of mountains and rocks.

Arrived around 3pm and tied up at lagoon cove marina. Took dogs on short walk and prepped appetizer for happy hour on the dock. The “signature’ thing for this place is 5pm happy hour where they provide the prawns and boaters that come bring a dish. We ate a lot and did not need dinner. Chatted a bit with other boaters and then chilled.

Lagoon Cove has nice big grassy areas to play chuckit with ths doga, NICE….

September 2^nd Lagoon cove day 2

Slept in. Harbor Porpoises fed all morning at low tide. By end of AM I deployed SUP but they had left. Both Alex and I did some SUPing, we tried to wax the boat a bit and walked all the trails on the property.

Played some chuck it with holly, had another happy hour and then to bed. Met Hugh and Fiona on Choices. Nice couple from Whistler (keep boat in coal harbor). He was Civil engineer, She a mechanical engineer. Back in 80s she spent a lot of time in Dubai designing and building amusement part rides.

September 3^rd Lagoon Cove to Blind Channel

Left lagoon cove and worked out way out to Johnstone strait.

Did Race Rapid. Saw two Orcas shortly after entering strait then further down saw a nice pod. They were close and we slowed down to spend more time with them. Some tail slaps. They zigzagged across strait when we turned up channel to go to Desolation sound.

We had option so shoal bay or blind channel resort. Alex decided on blind channel resort with no complaints from me ?

Right after we tied apparently the orcas had followed up the channel and went past…all were looking on the dock but we were walking dogs and missed it. We saw Bear North with John and now younger brother Loyd sailing behind us and they pulled up too. We all had dinner together… it twas good I had halibut, Alex had Schnitzel (pounded, breaded and fried pork cutlet).

We spent two nights

September 4^th Blind Channel

Chill day, walked dogs on all the available trails, swam dogs, trim dog nails, had dinner in and nice mellow day.

September 5^th Blind channel, Dent rapids and Dent Island resort

Left around 8:30am to get to rapids at slack. Passed shoal bay which looked nice (green area, dock). Might be a nice stop another year.

Nice views as weather was nice with few clouds and lots of sun.

Arrived at Dent Lodge and tied up. Explored lodge a bit then went for hike on their trails. Dent Lodge is a high end resort for Salmon fishing and very nicely done but pretty expensive for moorage.

Tugboat trail and a newly added Loop Trail up into the forest. Ms Terra stuck her head in a wasp nest and we got a mini swarm after us…alex and I both got 7-8 bites on our legs. Not sure if terra got any. That was kind of a bummer as painful.

Dent Island Loop Trail, Watch Out For Wasp Nests In Leaves On Ground

We reserved at the Rapids Grill for dinner…seven course meal cooked in front of you for a group of 12 on a bar around the cook. It was yummy and we had a good time.

Rapids Grill, Dent Rapids In Back Ground

We saw that the power cat was from point Richmond and I said hello to the owner and realized it was Steve and Susan Chamberlin ! Also Selene behind us had two guys from Walnut creek, one a retired veterinarian. We met them at the appetizer hour and then sat with them at the grill. It was there 25^th anniversary and interestingly they have two grown children adopted 20 and 22 years ago.

FULL FULL FULL and off to bed after dinner. Very itchy me all night due to bites starting with the welts from the wasps on hike….

September 6^th Day 2 Dent lodge

Chill day, walked dogs just a bit, worked out, had dinner at inside restaurant very good. Plan to leave around 10:30 next day to get rapids with some but not too much current.

Ketchikan To Shearwater

August 24thTo August 27^th

Between Ketchican and Shearwater we stopped at Prince Rupert, for Canadian customs, then Hartley Bay and the native village of Klemtu.

August 24^th, Ketchikan to Dixon Entrance to Prince Rupert

To get to Prince Rupert from Ketchican you need to cross Dixon Entrance, which is open to the Pacific from the west, so you need to watch the weather for the crossing. Dixon Entrance is just south of Prince Rupert.

The weather forecast for Dixon entrance is above showing 20 to 30 knots the evening before turning to the west at 15-25 the next morning when we left. For this crossing the west wind is the direction you do not want since the wind waves will have a long fetch and build on top of the swells coming form the Pacific.

Since we would not be at Dixon until later in the day when winds should diminish to 10-15 decided to go for it starting a little later at 10 am.

Started out nice cruise as in side passage til got past foggy bay. First part of crossing ok but when we got in front of Portland inlet we had ebb tide from sound and beam seas. It sucked! We had to “tack” ie turn up towards west end of Dundas island to head more into waves then turn SE to have more following seas to get back to east ends of Dundas island. About 2 hours of bad rocking with one big tip over. We had not tied down table or chairs but they were ok. Arrived at Prince Rupert and got into a slip no problem. It was 5:30 pm or so. Harbormistress had left us keys.

Alex called in to customs and we received our clearance and number over the phone.

Alex sees a bunch of lows coming and very worried. Wants to skidaddle south quickly at get inside Vancouver island rain shadow.
That night Alex watched first gator game and they won. Go gators.

August 25^th Sunday: Prince Rupert to Hartley Bay

Headed south early in AM. Fought tide first ½ of day then caught current second. Skipped Lowe Inlet stop due to worry about storms. Nice easy quiet cruise. Saw a couple whales which we were surprised. Both of us had been wondering if we’d find them in Grenville canal since it very narrow for a long distance.

Arrived early evening in Hartley bay. Got lucky and found dock space. Free dock, free 30amp electric and free high speed internet ! WOW.

We squeezed Water Dog in to this very small marina on an inside dock keeping as far off the breakwater on the outside as possible. Another 60 footer squeezed in also later at the side dock inside us.

This is a board walk town of 200. No store. We walked the water front board walk and then the to the fish hatchery and beyond along the Gabion river.

The hatchery is run by the Git Ga tribe. We saw some fry in tanks.

Continued to walk board walk which ended up being about 1 mile long to “lower lake”. Dogs had a good time.

Lots of nice blue berries on the trail and the dog’s have now learned to pick berries when ever they see them.

Of course what ever Terra does Holly copies.

Had dinner in. Met folks from Port Edward (around the corner from prince Rupert where historic cannery museum lies), Jim Jones. He had been anchored in the storm two nights before and stayed up all night hoping his anchor would hold.

August 26^th Hartley Bay to Klemtu

Saw large pod of Orcas going in our direction so got to cruise along with them for a long time keeping the same speed, WAY cool! And a couple whales.

Wanted to stop at Khutze bay but weather not good and alex still stressing so we passed it by. No room at public dock (a cruising boat was at dock and if we had beat them we would have been able to tie up) so anchored.

Klemtu dock is pretty trashed up but cant complain when free!

Water Dog Anchored Off Klemtu Public Dock

We anchored further out to avoid trees getting stuck on anchor, nice view of long house. We took a walk in Klemtu again. Went to the Spirit Bear lodge. All inclusive lodge owned by the tribe. Walked in and at first the “manager” was a little surprised to see us but then he got in host mode and was friendly and informative. Explained they provide cultural and wildlife viewing tours. He mentioned his boats would be back soon but were watching 15 orcas trying to kill a humpback outside Khutze inlet. I asked about the huge ferry terminal north of town and he said it was just “luck”: BC ferries needed a storm port and they chose klemtu. 24 million for barely used ferry station. Asked if Salmon ran in the rivers there and he said yes (they were jumping all around us again).

On way back a local told us to be careful a sow with two cubs is wandering town and could pop out at any time…we did not see.

Augusty 27^th Klemtu to Shearwater

Chill cruise. Saw a couple whale spouts. A bit of open water to get to Shearwater in Mllebanke sound. A little chop but nothing compared to Dixon. Wanted to stop at Bella Bella but no dock space so went to Shearwater.

Shearwater was pretty full. We have caught up with the cruisers. This made Alex feel good (as we caught up) and bad (as we now have company) LOL!

Walked to coast guard station and back so dogs could run (about 5 miles)

We met John and Vicky on Bear North who tied up behind us while we were on our walk. They are on a nice new 58 foot motor sailor made by Hans Christian??

They had gone to Hadai Gwaii. They also were anchored in the big storm with the captain manning the help at night just in case. Good thing Alex checks weather as we were at Ketchikan dock for this. He was critical care ER doctor and she ER/pediatric nurse. Nice couple. They live in Alberta one hour from Banf. They keep their boat at Van Isle marina (just like Mana Kai and Grand QTR). They shared a reference of “Bert” their boat watch person and promised to email info when they can. They joined us for dinner so it was a nice time

Sitka to Ketchikan

We stopped in Sandy Bay, Egg Harbor, Merrifield Bay and Thorne Bay on our way back south from Sitka to Ketchican.

Left Sitka around 7:45am. High fog at first and for most of the Journey. Were aiming for cats head or tail cove but decided to stop at Sandy Bay which supposedly had a waterfall. Not a bad cruise but 6-7 foot seas and 20 kt winds from NW and very irregular waves from SW made the ride a bit lumpy.

Entering Sandy bay was easy since waves coming from north west and angle of bay opening was NE so just a bit of beam seas and got right in.

Searched for spot and picked deep anchorage in front of waterfall instead of up the arm to the river outflow.

Saw some otters and the next AM saw a grizzly grazing grass at one of the beaches. Had BLTs for dinner. At this site lost all satellite from DirectTv

August 7^th Sandy Bay to Egg Harbor on Coronation island

Left 9:30 ish or later. When went to get dinghy up the davit failed. Davit motor starts by itself and wont stop after release buttons. BAD BAD NEWS as it may not be long til it fails completely. Got dinghy on board with a bunch of nonsense trying to get it right on the supports and with the davit issue. Headed out and FOG FOG FOG. At first ½ mile visibility and could see the coast a bit but then near Ommaney point turned got worse and worse. We approached Coronation island with radar only…no visibility of land at all. Fog is not much worry in open water but when going in to an unknown small harbor we get a bit nervous.

All of a sudden we came out of fog and were surrounded by the mountains (1400ft) at bay entrance. That was a relief but was stressful using only radar and charts to get into bay.

Anchored in the bite recommended by the SE Alaska book and it was rolly. Actually as remote this place is a sailboat had just anchored at head of the bay prior to our arrival.

Alex decided safest to launch little dinghy (which is used as an accessory storage shed for stuff ☹) in case we can’t bring it up with crane.

Then took dogs and us to the beach. Small dinghy very small for the four of us..unstable. Met the neighbors on the beach and chatted. Dogs swam a bit and played.

Cruised along shore on way back to see if we could see the supposed “trail” which is rough but goes up pin peak. Did not really find.

I had rubbed pork tenderloins the day before so we had pork tenderloins, grilled broccoli and rice for dinner. Watched part of a movie and went to bed.

August 8^th Egg Harbor

Slept in. Took dogs in to shore by the caves on west side of Harbor and had a nice beach walk going through a few caves from beach to beach. Found an old pipe where we landed dinghy and alex went hand over foot up the ridge a bit. We had read can hike to pin peak so were wondering if this was the trail.

Water Pipe On Right Possible Trail To Top

We put a plastic green jug marker we found on the beach as a marker in the tree to mark the spot where the pipe runs up the hill.

Green Plastic Jug On Tree Marking Possible Trail To Top

Later in day went to the head of bay beach and walked through the rain forest with old growth and a foot of moss covering it all. Very surreal. Lots of goat trails and poop but never found this supposed trail to Pin Peak.

Before going back to boat went to the east shore of the bay and walked across the isthmus to the other shore. Even though only 800-900 feet with all the downed logs and moss tough to get there.

Then we saw dead something on beach and dogs were too interested so just looked at other bay and headed back. More goat poop. We did see small footprints, likely martins since those are about here. The entire day fog was visible at mouth of bay. Had Pasta sauce for dinner and then too bed.

August 9^th Egg harbor to Merrifield Bay

We started out going to Point Baker but when we got there we did not see a place on the dock for us. We ended up at Merriweather cove 1 mile east of Port Baker.

At Merrifield Bay we anchored in behind the net float used by fisherman for working on nets. With south winds forecast this turned out to be a nice calm place and stayed two comfortable nights at anchor.

Water Dog Anchored Behind Net Float At Merrifield Bay

Later that day we took dinghy to Point Baker. Had a couple drinks at the bar and the bar mistress, owner, harbor mistress mentioned we should have hailed her as we could have tied up at float plane dock. Oh well. We chatted with her a bit and then headed back to boat. No dogs on shore and its private land so that was a bummer.

August 10 and 11^th

Point Baker to Thorne Bay

Two nights at Thorne bay. Got there late day and side tie at dock (Sunday).

Got a milkshake at the café and walked the waterfront.

Going inland we found the big log claw which they have turned into the city’s ornament. I guess due to size its not right down town. Ate in that night with plan to fish, walk and eat out at the café the next day.

Monday Alex took dinghy out to opening of bay (4 miles) to fish. I then kayaked out to him. Tried to tow kayak but it flipped so hauled it on board. Alex tried for halibut nada. On way back in since salmon jumping all around us we casted a bit for salmon. Nada. Got back and took dogs on the “heart health walk” which is a trail/old logging road up to a picnic shelter with a view. Good exercise for us and dogs. Road continued after the shelter and we walked a bit further.

*View Of Marina From Thorne Bay Heart Health Trail*

August 12^th Thorne Bay to Ketchikan

On this cruise saw a lot of seiners and some gill netters. Alex asked someone and it seems sometimes season opens Sunday, Monday, Tuesday. This was a Tuesday.

Plan to leave Alex in Ketchikan while I go visit mom. We had been before so knew to look for open moorage which would not be hot docking. We got a great site at end of float 7 bar harbor south across from the slip we had previously. We walked the north ½ of the Raindbird trail with dogs. Nice to stretch legs and another rainforest walk.

That night lots of seiner’s came in and filled our float seven all around us, some even rafting. Great we got here before them!

We had dinner at Annabelles…the old hotel with the old bar purchases by owner years back from an old san Francisco bar. Good blu cheese halibut for Alex and I had Caesar salad with Halibut

August 13^th -23^rd Ketchikan

We had one day together in Ketchikan. Planned to walk entire Rainbird Trail which runs across the top of town in a strip of woods. Got to Alava’s fish and chips right at opening and split an order. Family run and got to talk to them for a bit. Walked down historic “alley” then up to and northward on the Rainbird trail and back to boat.

On the 14^th I had 5pm flight to visit mom. I took a taxi then airport ferry. Had Alaska airlines to seattle. Then delta Seattle to PBI. Overnight flight. Thought I might get sleep but nope. Arrived on the 15^th and stayed til the 20^th. Mom on hospice, weaker, not happy if not on drugs. So sad.

Ales worked on boat chores while I was gone.

August 20^th I arrived back to RAIN! Ran to catch 1:30 ferry then cab to the dock. Alex had been watching weather and this was a big storm with wind so he had luckily asked and was allowed to move us into the slip across from our side tie. The harbormaster helped him with lines. That night a good blow but not as bad as alex had thought but it would be bad to have been slammed against dock all night.
Aug 21^st Wednesday. Another storm (bigger) was coming. Might have been an ok day to cross Dixon entrance but alex decided to have us wait which meant three days of waiting (til Saturday). That afternoon it cleared up so we walked to the church campus with grass we had found an Adler park to play with dogs.

Thursday 22nd we decided to rent a car for the day. Went to Walmart and to get propane. Did not do any scenic drive or drive to other parks as RAIN!.

Friday 23^rd we were in the big storm. Alex did some boat stuff. I wasted time and did do trampoline. Early in AM before care return we went to Walmart to get Brita filters and then to the Sweet Mermaid downtown for breakfast.

Warm Springs Bay To Sitka Via Baby Bear Cove

July 31^st To Aug 6 th Warm Springs Bay To Sitka Via Baby Bear Cove

Left early to catch tides. Peaked in waterfall cove to see 400foot waterfall kutxhcuel/???? Nice. Pretty nice clear day.

Terra and Holly where not stressed out at all on this trip as they rested in Pilot House next too Patty piloting the boat.

Terra and Holly stressing Out in Pilot House During Trip

Saw one whale sort of close and one distant breach. Cruised up peril strait and stopped at Baby Bear Bay which was 3 nm north of Sergius narrows which has big current and has to be timed well. Had a chill evening in Baby bear day. Saw a dear but no bears. Alex deployed crab traps.

August 1^st Baby Bear Cove to Sitka

Alex retrieved crab traps. Got three small ones. We cooked them up in AM for later consumption prior to leaving. Got everything ready to go as needed to time tide at Sergius narrows. Left 10:30am (was a bit early) and nice flat water. Got to Sergius narrows early, still against tide so went through slow but no drama. No orcas or bears.

Chill cruise through Neva and Olga strait. When crossed small bit of ocean stopped on a small “sea mound” to fish for halibut. Guys caught a spiny rockfish and unidentified trout looking thing. Entered Sitka sound and then got to Sitka Harbor. Assigned end tie in Eliason harbor float seven.

The restored charter tug boat Swell, which we have seen numerous times on trip, was docked behind us. Took a short walk near marina and then guys cooked surf and turf YUM!

Water Dog at Sitka Harbour with Restored Tug Boat Swell

August 2^nd Sitka

We took dogs to dog park (a designated baseball field and they played some good chuck it). We then walked to downtown on waterfront. At first industrial but a couple inns and restaurant. Got to Totem square on waterfront with totem pole depicting history of Sitka.

Walked up Baranof Castle Hill which is where transfer of Alaska from Russia to US was executed years back. Lots of interpretive signs talking of history…Tlingits, Russians, US.

Then walked the small downtown which had a few good local artist shops. We had fry bread from a couple college kids. They recommended two food trucks (ashmo’s and Ju Ju’s) as lunch choices. Ju Ju’s is owned by fishing family and had fish tacos. At JuJu’s I had Halibut tacos, Alex had one salmon and one halibut. Fish good (owned by fishing family) but did not like the plane un heated corn tortillas. Marcia had the rice bowl which looked good. Gary had plain fish.

Finished town walk. Had rent a wreck Sitka car rental dropped off at totem square and thus after town walk we drove to Sitka National Historic park. Looked at some Indian stuff inside then took totem loop walk to see poles and also along Indian river.

Saw lots of Salmon running and watched some fisherman. No bears. Beautiful park. We did stop at Rose Gallery which is in a small building across from library and south harbor. It was a nice gallery. Went back and all tired. Marcia napped and Gary, Alex and I went to dinner at the Long Liner inn restaurant. Nice seafood pasta for the guys and I had halibut on salad with fries (my bad had fries ?)

August 3^th Sitka

We took dogs to dog park. Then after breakfast I had arranged for us to go visit raptor center around 10am. They did not have any patients for me to look at but we saw the facility and got a back scenes tour.

We then took car to Staargavin river area. Walked the forest/muskeg trail and then those guys hung out while we added on the mosquito cove loop (beautiful trail). We met at picnic table after and they had gotten some snacks. Left there around 3pm as a family had the hut reserved (nice sturdy hut, right on ocean and big firepit down near water).

We headed back and alex worked on zincs a bit while we hung out. Then we went into town for a bit to check out the rest of town. Gary and Marcia got something at another gallery and then we had a drink at Ernie’s bar (established 80 years ago) and then Pioneer bar (more locals and we had seen a dog go in the day before for its hot dog). We all decided to go to dinner at the Channel Club which was recommended by the another boater we had seen in Baranoff (Mola Mola). We had nice dinner: ¾ of us had white king salmon (apparently the metabolize their diet differently, milder and I liked it) and Marcia had soy type Black cod tips. Excellent meal.

August 4^th Sitka

We took dogs to dog park and alex filled dinghy gas tanks. Then back to boat to retrieve the gang. Went to the Sheldon Jackson museum for a couple hours. After that went back to boat.

Chilled in PM….I went to grocery store as I though we were leaving the next day. Got back 6:30pm ish.
That night we were tired and they /we had to get up early so went to get take out Mean Queen Pizza. While we waited we walked the dogs along the sea walk which is at the most southern marina and where the cruise ship passengers are let off.

August 5^th Sitka

I took those guys to airport at 5am. We had decided to stay and had a slow start but by 12:30 we were on Harbor Mountain /Gavin hill trail. Drove up 5mile long forest road and parked then walked along ridge to alpine hut (2.3 out and back, fairly strenuous). It was very clear, great views of mountains, alpine wild flowers, ocean all around just a stunning wonderful hike!).

Lots of blue and red berries to eat on trail

We turned around at the shack on top of ridge where you can stay over night if you wish.

Holly at *Gavan Hill* Trail Before Shack

On the way back down you get nice views of the bay below.

After we went down to Ashmo’s for late lunch and the truck was still open. Ashmo’s was recommended by the young couple that made fry bread and also by Steve a fourth generation American Indian who’s family has 4-6 jewelry stores in Texas, Ketchikan, Sitka). We went back and got boat ready for voyage down outside of Baranof Island.

Red Bluff Bay To Baranof Warm Springs

July 29^th and 30^th Baranof Warm Springs

Trip Length 22 nm

Baranof Warm Springs is a great stop with a nice dock and hot tubs with a view. The tubs have a hot water tap coming from a pipe from the hot springs above you use to fill them and a cold tap to control temperature. There is a donation box at the tubs to help pay for the upkeep. Also a short hike up the board walk is a fresh water lake that is great for dog swimming.

Early wake up at Red Bluff Bay. Alex wanted us to leave 9 ish. Had to do dogs, pick up kayaks, pick up crab traps, pick up dinghy and then on way out of place pick up prawn trap. Busy morning. All accomplished and anchor up and we were running by 9:30.

More prawns! Short cruise up chatham strait. Flat calm again easy to spot whales and another amazing whale encounter. Turned off engines and they were all around us literally at times 20 feet from boat. Off the stern and port side…two off port had to dive under us. Saw a few breaches from far away…. So cool.

Got to Baranoff maybe 2pm and a nice Flemming Mola Mola moved forward so we could be on the dock. Had the space right next to the float plane dock with great view of falls. Lots of current coming from water fall, expecially at low tide, so higher tide less current makes it easier to dock. Also rocks right past dock towards water fall so dont go past end of dock either!

Took a walk with all to Baranoff lake, the hot springs pools which are situated right next to a major rapid as the short river goes from lake to the falls. It cut a deep channel through granite or basalt and amazing…right next to hot pool rushing water. No bears but lots of berries in season now …blue berries and raspberry type things. Cloudy but no rain during walk.

Day Two at Baranoff: prawn trap deployed by guys. Guys ate Prawns for lunch. I went for a couple SUP excursions and did make it in lagoon that mush be entered and departed from at slack or rapids. Pretty but no bears. Cleared a lot so saw mountains. Alex and I took a walk to lake later in afternoon and then up a small hill (required some climbing) and had nice view of Baranoff lake.

Patty, Terra, Holly Lake At Baranof Warm Springs

We all took advantage of the hot tubs which was neat as you sat in tub with view of the waterfall.

At base of falls we did see school of salmon, supposedly pink salmon. We wonder if they spawn at the base of the waterfall. I did see a harbor seal hunting in the froth at the base of the falls, very cool.

Unfortunately Gary had a fall on the bow. Slipped on Teflon mat and landed on his shoulder. Hurt it BADLY and was very painful that night to the point he could not sleep at all. We were worried he might have to fly to hospital from Baranoff but he did feel better with medications.

Kake to Red Bluff Bay

July 27^th and 28^th Kake to Red Bluff Bay

Trip Length 30 nm

We went to Red Bluff Bay on the advice of other cruisers we talked to before Kake and it turned out to be one of our favorite anchorages along with our next stop at Baranof Warm Springs directly to the North.

Kake (On Right), to Red Bluff Bay (On Left)

Red Bluff Bay is at the end of a small inlet about 30 nm West of Kake. Nice cruise other than had high water alarm as I must have kicked off lazarette bilge pump switch when I cleaned windowscary. We got going fairly early as wind was to kick up in Chatham Strait. Crossed strait with 3-4 foot chop and no problem with stabilizer on. Got to Red bluff bay..what a cool wonderful place. Entrance hard to see from strait but not hard to navigate, just stay center channel.

Red Bluff At Entrance To Red Bluff Bay, Entrance To The Left

Marcia had read guide that prawns could be had on northwest corner of island 85(which we finally figured out meant 85 foot high on chart) so we dropped shrimp trap on the way in. Ended up getting over 50 prawn on the first night when we used dinghy to retrieve trap and 40 or so next night when we picked trap up on way out.

Arrived as only folks there and took a cruise around the bay since it was not raining. Saw the wonderful waterfall, nosed up river in dinghy. No bears. Guys put out crab traps near boat (we saw a crab when we took dogs to shore). Guys grilled tenderloins for dinner YUM!

The next day we deployed kayaks. Guys went to check shrimp trap and Marcia and I tried to paddle up river since it was high tide. Could not make it far due to current. No bears but I did see a dear in meadow. Beautiful views..waterfalls everywhere! Guys got 44 prawns very happy guys…also got 5 crabs! Monsters.

Gary Pickn Out Day Two Prawn Catch On Way Out Of Bay

Guys went for evening kayak to falls. Then I went in kayak with terra to falls later. All got rained on. Terra had to do dog business. I was able to pull up to a steep shore and let her off and she peed and poohed. Just before water fall I came around corner and was just a few yards off shore BEAR! Right there and very interested in us. He dipped foot in water but I backed away quickly and he did not follow. Terra shivered and one faint woof…not much of a bear dog. I looked at falls and then paddled back.

Red Bluff Bay Kayaking Shore Line (Bear!)

We cooked and cleaned crab but saved it as we had grilled prawns with magic sauce.

10 sail boats came in on our second night.
No more bears where encountered.
Sailboat gang just put dogs a shore and let them frolick and some also went to bear meadow and hung out….. we maybe too conservative on worrying about bears but maybe not.

Tracy Arm to Kake Via Cannery Cove

July 25^th Tracy Arm Cove to Cannery cove

Super smooth passage across and southward in Stephen’s passage to Fredick sound. Near bottom of Stephen’s passage where meets with Frederic sound MANY MANY Whales. We stopped engines and floated for an hour. Whale all around us! No breaching. One almost hit the boat and scared the heck out of us as big boil when he quickly avoided us. Cool to hear all the blows.

Moved on to Cannery Cove to anchor over night before proceeding to Kake. Total rain! Could not really see the shore much due to rain…never saw bear (Grand QTR boat friends had seen bear at tracy arm and a cannery cove but us nada). Marcia made white chili for dinner and I added salad and corn bread. Guys did crab traps and shrimp traps. Got two crab maybe? No Shrimp.

July 26^th Cannery Cove to Kake (pronounced “cake”)

Got to Kake early as short trip. Had Dahl’s porpoises bow surf for a good several minutes on the way into the bay. The marina is past the town proper where you pass the public dock. Thought of staying at the public dock but run down and only looked suitable for a possible dinghy run later.

Marina is far from “town”. Town has population of 500. We settled in to a slip (no power) and took a short walk to shore.

Then jumped into dinghy and went to the free public dock (not in good repair and shallow) and walked “town”.

Saw liquor store, church and residences…some nice house but most kind of shabby. Alex and I walked back to boat and Marcia and Gary took dinghy back. Cake has a very nicely stocked general store where we stopped and got a toaster and few items. For the general store From the marina you take a left at marina office and walk down the road along the water about 1/2 mile to the store on the right hand side.

Guys went out fishing that evening. Beautify evening with some some and nice flat water. They got two rock fish (one of which impaled Alex) but no halibut. Oh well they had a nice time. I had rubbed pork tenderloins to eat but they got back so late we had hot dogs and cabbage salad.

Juneau To Tracy Arm, Tracy Arm Glacier Cruise

July 23^rd To 25^th

Trip Length 43 nm

Easy cruise down Gastineau channel and Stephen’s passage to Tracy Arm No Name Cove where we anchored. There are no good places to anchor in Tracy Arm itself and with around a 50 nm round trip to South And North Sawyer Glaciers and back we anchored at the cove the night before and again at the end of the day of the trip to see the glaciers.

Had to anchor three times as ended up too near a small boat that had put out to much scope which swung in a huge arc. Shared first night with the Nordhaven Roxia which had shared slip with us at Juneau. No bears! Guys did not put out crab traps. Did an afternoon dinghy ride and got glacier ice from a bergie for happy hour.

Terra, Marsha and Gary In Dinghy At Bergy Bit Outside No Name Cove

Chilled and had dinner which was crab enchiladas using crab alex had harvested cooked and saved in hoonah.

July 24^th day cruise up and back Tracy Arm dodging bergies as we went.

Patty and Alex At Waterfall On Way In Tracy Arm To Glaciers

We did end up getting a decent bump or two from Bergy bits not to bad if you go slow. The ones that are the problem is the smaller size ones couple feet around or so, that are clear blue and very hard to see. Did notice the tour boat guy’s went to the outside along walls at pretty high speed. I think they keep the bergy bits washed out with their wake from boat directly and reflected wake of walls. We pretty much stayed more or less down the middle and went slowly when required through more dense bergy fields.

Entrance South Sawyer Glacier, Glacier Peaking Around Corner

Ended up getting to within 1/4 mile of both North and South Sawyer Glaciers.

Went early to miss cruise ships and we did. Mostly cloudy day but peaks of sun, no rain and high enough clouds that we saw the mountains so beautiful. Did south sawyer glacier first and picked our way up to within a 1/4 mile or so. So a bit of ice chunks fall but no major calving. Did not get close enough to see harbor seals on bergies near the glacier.

Then went to North Sawyer. I had read glacier is land bound but it does hang over water. Big river coming form its west (left ) face as you look at it. Hung out a half mile form it then headed back.

Receding Glacier On Chart Plotter, We Are Shown Inside Glacier on Older Raster Chart

Gary was on the stern just hanging and saw a HUGE calving he said…1/4 of the face fell off and created big wave. Dodge ice on the way back but while I was on watch I hit a small chunk. Made an god awful noise and I felt bad and alex mad as he thought I was not paying attention since I left wheel to go over and look at seals out the side window. I just did not see it. I had looked away when we hit but I also had scanned before doing so and not seen it. Oh well.

Got back to Tracy arm cove. Anchored on the southeast side instead of northwest. This made us realize the northwest side is better as you get view of mountains.

No bears!

Glacier Bay To Auke Bay/Juneau via Swanson Harbor

July 17^th Glacier bay to Swanson Harbor Public dock

Shaggy Cove to Juneau Via Swanson Harbor Float

Fairly long day to Swanson Harbor with NW wind coming down Icy Straight helping push us along.

Swanson Harbor has great AT&T cell phone reception and two nice floating docks not attached to the shore but very close. Route below was use to get in with docks on North East side when you get in at the loop at top of track. Water was deep at 35′ or so right up to the docks. You can also dock on the inside but might be a bit narrow at low tide.

Was raining so A nice stop over with dogs and would stop again in nicer weather to kayak etc. Did not put dinghy out. I took Terra and then Holly to shore in kayak. Had a little kayak around bay. Not a lot of walking on land but small exploration. Alex did not go ashore.

July 18 (North Juneau)^th Swanson Harbor to Auke Bay

Saw some whales. Still raining a lot. Rounding Point Couverden we ran in too some pretty steep water and 25-30 knot winds with small breaks from the starboard stern quarter.

We got on breakwater at Auke Bay Harbor but barely but did, lots of fishing/tour boats came in to dock right after us! No power but that’s ok. Took a walk with dogs through University of Alaska to a lake which had a nice trail along its southern edge. Had dinner on board with plan to go to Juneau.

July 19^th Auke Bay to Juneau
Easy cruise down Stephen’s passage. Couple whale spouts. Got to Aurora harbor and had a slip. Took a walk around neighborhoods with dogs then chilled. Arranged to have a car from the 20^th through the 23^rd.

July 20^th -21^st Juneau

Once at Juneau for second time we finally got across the bridge from Juneau to Douglas Island to hike the Treadwell Mine Historic Park. Down load the trail map with info on the numbered markers on the trail to identify the ruins before you go. Treadwell was a gold mine with shafts that collapsed after operating for a number of years from late 1800 to 1917 when the cave in creating Glory Hole occurred.

Terra and Holly at Stamp Mill Ruins, Sign Post#4

We drove down town to cruise dock area to meet Ashley the nice woman who had helped us so much with slip arrangements and got a pass.

Next day walked back above marina to the Perserverence Trail System to Ebner falls at the beginning of the trail. Beautiful trail up the valley with great view, streams etc…. When got down we went over the the Lance Chance Mine museum at the trail head start and checked it out. Old equipment in one of the remaining buildings, small place but cool old equipment.

Suspect you have seen Ingersall Rand air compressors for sale, well here is there great grand dad that was used to run the air tools in the mine.

*Last Chance Museum* Huge Belt(Stranded Cable) Driven Air Pump

That night had dinner at Twisted Fish: fish tacos for us both: it was ok but not spectacular.

We picked up Gary and Marcia July 21^st on the 10:15 delta flight. Had our hellos then to bed as all tired, especially them after day of travel

July 22^nd

Got up early and had breakfast at Sandpiper Café. Then drove to Mendenhal glacier. Viewed glacier, walked out to nugget falls and then did visitor center. Went to fish hatchery and bear viewing area but no bears as salmon not running as not enough water! They are in the lake but not able to get up stream. No salmon so no bears 🙁

Nugget Falls, Alex, Patty, Holly, Terra, Marsha and Gary

Very nice time regardless. Dogs swam at nugget falls!

That afternoon major provisioning. Went to Costco and got most stuff needed (and some not) and then to Fred Meyer. Did some shops (liked rainforest wood shop) then decided to have dinner at Salt which had been recommended by locals. It was pricey but very good. After that walked back on boardwalk then off to bed.