Gorge Harbour To Campbell River

August 26 th To 29 th

Trip Length 17 nm

We got out of Gorge Marina around 10 am for our short rip to Campbell River Coast Marina.  DestinationCambpell river. A largish town (35k, the biggest we have been to in weeks) and the “salmon capital of the world”.  When leaving Gorge Harbour you have to take a hard turn to starboard to get around the spit extending southward from Marina Island.  The channel around the spit at the end of Marina Island is pretty narrow but well marked.  There is a nice anchorage along the east side of the spit we passed on our way by that was very crowded with anchored boats.  We rounded the light house at the south end of Quadra Island ending up fighting a 2-3 knot current for the last mile in to the Campbell River Coast Marina.  This is a smaller family owned marina run by a father and son, highly recommended.  They even provided a free ride over to Elk Falls where we hiked back to the boat. 

The first day we walked north of our marina to Robert V. Ostler Park and then checked out Fishermans Wharf Marina Pier Farmers market and had some lunch at the baba ganoush foodtruck. Some artists had booths and some veges/bread baked goods. We bought some strawberries. Walked back along pier street and found a thrift shop where we picked up some paniers and a plumbers wrench.

Once we checked out the boats at Fishermans Wharf we turned around and went north past Discovery Harbour Marina past an indian grave yard.  The town has put interpretive signs a long the way. There is a cemetery/burial ground on the way out to the spit and many totem poles honored graves as well as grave stones. Some Indian named Henderson carved mosteverything in town (I think he is gone but children carry on).  Hoping to go to Elk Falls provincial parktomorrow with the doggies.

A little further north we passed the Tyee Club which is in front of Tyee pool famous for it’s salmon.  The members fish in skiff’s where you must row to catch a Tayee salmon to join the club.

Past the club is dick Murphy Park which dead ends at Campbell river.

The next day the owner of the marina was nice enough to drive us over to Elk Falls Trail Head where we started our hike back to the marina along the banks of the Cambell River on the millennium and canyon view trails.

The trail head is close to the Elk Falls suspension Bridge you walk over the wooden plank generator plant “penstock” pipes and suspension bridge to get to Elk Falls.  The wooden plank water pipes are 20′ or so in diameter and built like wood water tanks with planks bound with metal rings.  They where built 60 years ago and still in use.  Shows you how well this construction works, kind of like wood boats surviving for so many years.

We then walked down river from the Falls along the river side trail to the 
John Hart Generation Station.

You cross the river from the south side to the north at the bridge above the generation plant.  We followed the trail down the north side until we got to the logging road where you cross back over to the south side again on Detweiler Rd and back to the marina.

Squirrel Cove To Gorge Harbour Marina

August 23 rd To 26 th

Trip distance 16 nm

Since the smoke was still with us we decided to head to Gorge Harbour Marina, on the other side of Cortes Island, to be able to plug in and run AC’s to filter the air.  This is a short two hour hop from Squirrel Cove.  Nice marina with general store and close by hiking at Whale Town Commons.  On the way in the harbour high up on the port side are some red petroglyphs shown below.

Gorge Harbour turned out to be a great stop where we ended up staying three nights at the marina.  The marina has a long dock out front that can handle large boats, even up too 100′ or so, and room inside for smaller ones.  The grounds are very nicely kept with a well stocked general store with LP gas available.  The grounds also include a nice RV park that seems very popular with folks taking the ferry over to Cortes island.

If you walk out the entrance road to the marina and take a left on Whale Town road past the fire House sign you will find Whale Town Commons Trail head on the right.  This is a real nice hike with a few old growth trees still standing.

The commons hike has many examples of nurser tree stumps where new trees use old logged tree stumps as a base to grow on.

The next day we walked back to the commons and walked through it to the back of the park and took a left on Jocelyn road.    On Jocelyn road we passed some cool artsy kind of houses until the road petered out and we found a small path to the left out too Carrington Bay road.  Carrington Bay takes you back too Whale Town road where a small art galley is located before you get to Whale Town proper.  Whale Town has a small dock/marina and the smallest post office I have ever seen.  There is also a small pottery there at the house next too the docks where we talked to the owner about Whale Town and bought two coffee cups.

Teakerne Arm To Squirrel Cove Anchorage

August 22 nd To 23 rd

Trip Length 7 nm

Very short trip over to Squirrel Cove Anchorage on Cortes Island where we are hoping that the smoke from BC forest fires may not be as bad.  There are some nice trails in the Von Donop Provincial Park from the Anchorage.

On the way in you pass by the small town Squirrel Cove on your left as you approach the anchorage at the head of the harbour.  Once we entered the anchorage we decided to anchor out in the first main harbour since it was a bit crowded further in.  Note the Trail Start below for the Von Donop Trail, it was a bit hard to find from the water.

Once we anchored we took the dinghy in to Squirrel Cove public dock. The small town has a restaurant and well stocked general store.  Down stairs is a HW Store/chandlery that had a surprising variety of stuff available.  We sat outside at the restaurant and had fish tacos before heading back to the boat.

The next day it took a bit of searching in the dinghy but we finally found the trail head for the Von Donop Trail which is marked with a white bucket filled with rocks.

The trail has been well marked by previous visitors with various items you find on the trees as you proceed.

If you proceed to the head of the trail at the road you will find the small Salmon Facility.  At this point you can walk in to town if you like.

On the way we passed by the Van Donop Anchorage which is accessed through the Ha’thayim (Von Donop) Marine Provincial Park on the north side of Cortez Island.  Was much less crowded there with only two boats present that seemed to be there long term.

Tenedos To Teakerne Arm Provencial Park

August 21 st – 22 nd

Trip Length 14 nm

We went to Teakerne Arm to check out the waterfall but by this time the smoke had gotten so bad that we did not want to get off the boat and exert ourselves due to the bad air.  You could not even see across the anchorage to the boats on the far side.  Very pretty spot but we ended up just staying a day and not really checking out much so not any pictures etc……..

We decided to head to Squirrel cove where the BC smoke map showed cleaner air.  

Grace Harbour To Tenedos Bay

August 20th-21st

Trip Length 8 nm

Our second stop in Desolution Sound Marine Provencial Park is Tenedos Bay where there is a hike to freshwater Unwin Lake where many people swim in the warm water of the lake.  Tenedos Bay was the start of our problem’s with smoke from the BC fires that plagued our trip for the next 3-4 weeks.  This is when we started looking at the BC Smoke Forecast web page with 24 simulations of smoke coverage so that we could start planning our next location to move around the smoke.

http://firesmoke.ca/forecasts/BSC00CA04/current/

We ended up anchoring out along the north east side of the bay in about 40 ft of water.  Our first try at anchoring when backing down we could could feel our chain twitching as our Rocna 110 anchor dragged on rock, on the second try a little further north we did get a good set.

The trail starts at the dinghy landing and we took a trail offshoot to the left of the main trail to let the dog’s run in the stream coming down from the lake.

Once at the lake we took a short hike on a trail to the right side of the lake but it petered out pretty quickly and got swampy so we ended up turning back after a few hundred yards.

Powell River to Grace Harbour Anchorage

August 18th To 20th

Trip length 26 nm

Grace Harbour is our first stop in the BC Desolution Sound Provencial Marine Park system. The park has three main anchorages: Prideaux Haven, Tenedo’s Bay and Grace Harbour.  We plan to visit Grace and Tenedo’s.

See http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/desolation/

This park has long been a boater’s favorite in the Malaspina Inlet and Homfray Channel area.  The warm waters of the park make for great swimming and their are nice hiking trails at the anchorages.

We headed north from Powell River and then took a right at the entrance to Okeover Arm Inlet to Malaspina Inlet where Grace Harbour anchorage is located.

We went to the north east side at the head of Grace Harbour where we anchored in 30′ or so in a nice mud bottom.


Looking West Grace Harbour Anchorage

On the west side of anchorage is a nice dinghy landing spot with a trail to Black Lake.

Terra at Black Lake

It is very evident from all the old equipment found all over these areas that logging was everywhere and old growth forest are just left in small patches  here and there.

Chatter Box Falls To Powell River

August 14th – 18th

Raised anchor at around 9am to make slack tide at 9:45am at Malibu Rapids, timed it well and had an easy 1-2 knot ebb current going out through the pass on our way to Powell River.

Powell River is a logging town with the Catalyst Paper Mill to the north of the marina, the area next to the mill is the historic area of Powell river.   There are plenty of places to provision with grocery stores and HW stores available but they are up some steep hills so expect to get some good exercise.

As we where leaving we started to start noticing the smoke from the BC forest fires that get worse over the next 2-3 weeks and ended up driving us back south from the Broughtons to get out of it later in the trip.  

 Powell River Marina is around 56nm miles away so at our roughly 9 knot speed we made it to Powell River West View Harbor marina at around 3 pm.   The dock crew at Westview do a great job in packing the boats in so if you have a side tie to the dock expect boats to side tie up to you during your stay.

Dont miss the Willingdon Beach Trail if you visit Powell River.  The trail runs along the water and is very cool with old logging equipment set up for viewing along the trail.  We walked out of the marina heading North along the water through the Willingdon Beach Campground to the trail.

 We followed the trail all the way down to Historic Downtown Powell River and the Catalyst Paper Mill.  We returned back south to the marina on Marine Avenue above the trail taking in the view of the old houses for the mill managers/employees up the hill. 

The logging equipment is very cool and all is custom made for very specific tasks.  The designs for these things are pretty complicated and must have taken years of refinement for a lot of it.  For example the Pole Wheel Cart design uses logs for rails to run the cart on. 

The steam donkey was dis-assembled by a volunteer crew and flown out by helicopter to the current location where it was re-assembled.   At the north end of the trail the you run in too the Catalyst Paper Mill which is surrounded by the original Old Town Powell River buildings supporting the paper mill. 

Dwight Hall is the original hall for the mill with kitchens and entertaining facilities.

On the way over to Marine ave we ran in to the Patricia Theatre so we just had to get a picture of Patricia in front of it.

One the way back we headed south on Marine Ave above the trail tp take a look at the pretty houses built for the upper echelon mill employees.

That evening we had dinner under the grape vines at Snickers up the hill and south of the marina.  Very good food and great atmosphere!

Vines Above Snickers Outdoor Dining

Pender Harbor Too Chatter Box Falls

August 11, 12 and 13th

Big day… off to Chatterbox falls in Princess Louisa inlet. Alex thought we might be departing later to catch the Malibu rapids at entrance to the inlet at slack…. then he realized we had to leave NOW ?…so we got going quickly and cruised up Agammemnon Channel and in to Jervis Inlet.  Was worried the ebbing tidal current, shown ebbing at 13:45 PDT at Malibu Rapids diagram below, would slow us down and we would miss our slack window. Did not see anything over a knot or so of current on the trip up so all good.  
Malibu Rapids at Princess Louisa Inlet can have up to 10 knots currents with a narrow dog leg in the middle so nothing to trifle with.  Even with making close to slack we had 2-3 knots flood going in.

John Henry Marina Too Chatter Box Falls
Princess Luisa Current 8/11/2018

Gloomy cloudy day and ended up raining too. At first a bit disappointed about rain but later realized this created many waterfalls in the fjord. Easy cruise and got to the rapids a bit before slack with incoming 2-3 knott current. Announced our transit and through we went.  Entrance dog legs to the right and a bit of an S curve but since we had timed it well not a problem. A 110 foot boat Alliance went through before us. We did not see it but wondered about navigating a long boat like that through the inlet.


Right near the entrance to Princess Louisa Inlet is a Christian kids camp. It must be for rich kids as what a place! Beautiful grounds, swim area, ski boats, SUPS, volleyball etc…. looked very swanky.

Fancy Kids Camp At Malibu Rapids

Arrived at the falls..it rained much of the way up the inlet but this created the waterfalls. The dock was full (we are too big for dock anyway) and there were several boats anchored to the west of the falls. I urged Alex to squeeze in right in front of the falls which he did YAY!! They guys went to stern tie us but it would have been on east side of falls and ranger came out to say not a good idea to tie there but she said we likely did not need to stern tide due to the current from the falls. So no stern tie but right  in front of falls four our 3 day stay.

We all checked out the falls and then settle in for evening. We had some left over dungenous crab so I made crab coconut soup. I added Ramen noodles at the end and it complemented it well.

Next day we deployed SUPS and kayaks and all did a bit of both. Took Dinghy to MacDonald island and took a short hike on Ming’s Loop, nice walk through the woods to the inlet. Got back and did some more SUPing and hanging.


Mings Loop Trail
Dighy Dock Macdonald Island
Macdonald Map
Terra Enjoying Ride Back from Macdonald Island

Unfortunately a yacht we had seen at John Henry “Shiatz” showed up and anchored next to us. They had these motorized self-propelled wake boards which were an annoyance. Alex asked that they keep them away but they still ruined the serenity. Unfortunately the ranger was gone for the time they were there so they were not shut down (one would think they would not be allowed). After the fact we should have told them of 4 mph speed limit and maybe the would have respected that. Terrible behavior!

The next AM Gary and Marcia were to fly out around 2pm.  We went to falls in AM, those guys took a kayak and then their float plane arrived.  When we were kayaking kept getting the feeling were being watched for some reason hmmmmm……Later in the day the float plane arrived at the park dock and Gary and Marsha flew off into the mist…

That afternoon we struck out on the trail to the trapper’s cabin (Which continues up to the top where apparently there are amazing views). Lots of warnings at beginning of how strenuous and unmaintained the trail is. We heard various reports…45 minute walk 1.5 hour walk? Anyhow off we went and it was very technical…lots of rocks and steep areas where one had to pull on roots etc…. We got about ½ hour and then Terra balked…she had enough…just too much for her with the steep inclines. So we turned around…I think youngster Holly could have made it and likely I could have too but it was a bit more than I liked too… maybe next time.

So the entire time we were there it seems hazy. We attributed it to humidity as it had rained but even on the last day when “sun” was out it was hazy. Turns out it was the beginning of several day so bad SMOKE from BC and Washington fires.


We would have stayed another day but the idiots on Shiatz continued to run their motorized wake boards so we left and headed north to Powell river where we could provision and refill water.

Nanaimo To Garden Bay/Pender Harbor

August 10th

Departed Nanaimo and stopped overnight at Garden Bay/Pender Harbor to get the first 30nm in for our destination of Chatter Box Falls.

Nanaimo To Garden Bay/Pender Harbor

Saw a couple humpbacks close by on the way (two sets of two) which was so cool. Arrived late afternoon and picked John Henry Resort and Marina in Hospitality bay for our overnight.  John Henry turnes out to be a real nice small marina with nice staff and well stocked store with all the essentials, food, beeer and Liqour.  At the free public dock nest to us we noticed a really nice restored fishing boat the Merry Chase, well done!

Walked a bit from marina and found a sign for the Pub Path, sounded like our kind of trail so followed it to Garden Pub on edge of Garden bay. Had some beers and wings then walked back. Chilled and had dinner.

Ganges To Nanaimo

August 8 and 9th

Hoisted anchor, headed north toward Nanaimo. Went through our first “rapids” Tod narrows. We were going with current at 3-4 knots and it was not an issue.

Holly Piloting Tod Narrows

When arrived twas a busy evening there with lots of boats had to anchor at edge of anchorage.  After circling we ended up barely inside the outside markers as shown at the circler intersection of route below.  There are some nice trails to hike from the Newcastle Park dock and a nice walk through a cool bohemian neighborhood on Protection Island from there dock shown below.

Nanaimo Anchorage

We went to nearby Newcastle island park and it was very nice. Old pulpstone quarry (for grinding lumber into pulp), also had coal mines but now a park with trails all around.

Nice old dance floor/building built in early 1900s. At one point was a big destination for folks from Vancouver to visit (after mines and quarry closed). We were on island short time in afternoon and got back to boat about 5;20pm at which time a police boat came around and said we had to leave??? What they meant is we had to get off the boat. Apparently we had arrived on a day the Canadian Snowbirds (similar to blue angels in USA) were doing a practice show in the harbor and we had to be off the boat in case they crashed I guess. So we went to the Dinghy Dock pub on Protection island. We had some appetizers and beer and watched the show. 

Guys deployed crab traps after that and then we had dinner on the boat cooked up the crab we had caught in ganges with drawn butter and sides salad.

Next day we took dinghy into Nanaimo. Walked the town which was ok, a few stores and a couple galleries. Had lunch at pirates fish and chips place. It was good… halibut and chips for Gary and I and Alex and Marcia had Salmon. Went shopping at BC liquor and grocery then back to boat. Everyone was chilling and I was as usual not tired so I went to the island and jogged the perimeter trail (Cut short at end cause it twas long!). No wildlife sighted but nice jog on water and through forest of cedar and madrones. Dogs got to swim before, during and after. We had the red crab we had caught in Ganges for dinner.

Guys checked the traps and we had lots of Dungenous crabs YAY. They took up traps but then regretted it since they had so many dungenous so they went back out and deployed them.


The next AM they check traps (more crab) and we raised anchor to cruise across strait of Georgia to Pender harbor/Garden Bay (which has several marinas).